Winter can be a difficult time for hikers—it is colder and wetter, the days are shorter, and there are a lot more logistical challenges to consider before going outside. However, winter is also a fabulous time to experience the outdoors. Snow and ice can make travel more challenging, but also brings beauty to the landscape. Gloomy days may be shorter, but they often provide opportunities for solitude and introspection on the trail. Besides, winter is long in the Pacific Northwest and who wants to stay cooped up indoors until spring? So, bundle up and head out the door. There is much to discover on winter trails for the curious hiker.
1) Cape Perpetua Scenic Area
A forested headland with sweeping views, dramatic ocean waves erupting onto rocky shores, and tide pools filled with intertidal life—a visit to Cape Perpetua’s hiking trails is a must any time of year. But visiting in the winter has its’s perks. Aside from a reduction in crowds, many of Cape Perpetua’s features are otherwise enhanced during the winter. For instance, increased winter’s wave action makes viewing Cape Perpetua’s show-stopping—Devils Churn, Cook’s Chasm, Thor’s Well, and Spouting Horn—much more dramatic.
In addition, some of the highest and lowest tides of the year can also be experienced in the winter, making a visit to the tide pools an enjoyable option. Take the Captain Cook Trail from the visitor center to access the tidepools. Just watch out for those sneaker waves!
Climb up to the top of Cape Perpetuas’s scenic headland —the remains of an ancient shield volcano — via the St. Perpetua trail for some of the best views on the Coast. Also, if you visit between mid-December and mid-January keep your eyes peeled for some of the nearly 25,000 grey whales that migrate along Oregon’s Coast each winter.
On a foggy day, a hike along Cooks Ridge and Gwynn Creek is well worth the trip alone. Both take you through some beautiful old-growth forests. Notice the rough”chipped paint” bark of the Sitka Spruce and the deeply furrowed bark of the Douglas-fir as you marvel at the size of the trees.
Location or Nearest Town: Yachats, OR
Distance: Varies from less than 1 mile to up to a 9-mile loop. Check out the forest service trail map and choose your adventure
Difficulty: Easy to Difficult
When to go: Anytime
Why go: Wave watching, tide pools, whale watching, old-growth forests.
Trail Curiosity: High and Low Tides
Explaining tides is as easy as explaining gravity. Okay, so not that easy. But it doesn’t require a master’s in geophysics to understand the basics of why we have tides in Oregon, and across the globe.
All objects are drawn to each other by the force of gravity, with more massive and closer objects having a stronger pull. The moon is the closest massive object to the Earth and exerts the largest influence. The moon’s gravity distorts the shape of the Earth’s mass, creating watery bulges which follow the moon’s orbit around the Earth, resulting in high tides on the sides of Earth closest and farthest from the moon.
The sun—due to its mass—also has an influence on tides, but to a smaller extent. During a new moon or full moon—when the Earth, Moon, and Sun are aligned—tides are higher than when the moon is perpendicular to the sun.
Simple, right? Not exactly, there are of course other factors that influence tides, like local wind and weather patterns.
In addition, because the orbit of the moon around the Earth is an ellipse, there are times when the moon is closer to the Earth than others. When these times, align closely with a full moon or new moon, this can result in what is known as “king tides.”
In Oregon, king tides occur during the winter and can add several feet to the average tide! On a heavy surf day, this can mean dramatic waves for winter storm watchers.
2) Ray Benson Sno-Park
Located at the top of Santiam Pass, Ray Benson Sno-Park provides ample opportunities for winter recreation. For hikers willing to strap into snowshoes or cross-country skis for the day, Ray Benson Sno-Park has many options for trails and loops of various lengths. Of course, shorter or longer options are also possible. Though the Sno-Park is the largest on the Santiam Pass, you will be surprised at how much solitude you can find at this accessible, beginner-friendly snowshoe destination.
The South Loop with the Brandenburg Shelter Loop add-on is a favorite of mine—offering views of Hayrick Butte, Black Butte, Mount Washington, and Three-fingered Jack at different points throughout. You can also take a short diversion over to Trail #3 (though please note this is a groomed snowmobile trail/road) that leads to Big Lake Campground and an opportunity to see Big Lake with Mount Washington encased in snow, just overhead.
Many of the trails travel through forests of stately conifers, covered in snow. However, the North Loop provides a unique view of forest recovery, as it passes through a part of the forest burned by the B&B Complex fires of 2003—ghostly snags and young regrowth line the trail.
Whatever route you choose, make sure to stop by one of the rustic warming shelters scattered across the backcountry. These three-sided shelters are a great stopping point for a snack and rest. Each one has a couple of benches and a wood stove with firewood for days when you need to warm up.
Another reason to visit Ray-Benson Sno-Park is the snow! The fact that it is situated along the Cascade Crest makes the snow at Ray Benson phenomenal.
Location or Nearest Town: Sisters, OR
Distance: Varies depending on the route. Check out the Ray Benson Sno-Park Nordic Trails Map to plan your adventure.
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
When to go: Anytime there is enough snow! Though a sunny day in the mountains is ideal for the views.
Why go: Mountain views, backcountry warming shelters, multiple route options, and snow!
Trail Curiosity: Snowpack
Due to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, Oregon has a maritime snow climate. Relatively warm, moist air from the ocean travels inland over the Cascades where it is forced upward, cools, condenses, and becomes rain or snow—a process known as orographic lift. As a result, snow in the west is wetter and heavier compared to the continental interior—creating a deeper, denser snowpack that sticks around well in the summer months.
All that snow is good news for recreators in the winter, but even better news for Oregonians come summer. Many of Oregon’s watersheds depend on snow, especially in dry summer months when many rivers are fed primarily by snowmelt.
Unfortunately, the news isn’t all good. Climate models predict a future with much less snow in Oregon—as warming causes historically snowy areas to become rainier. Snowpack levels are already declining. According to the Fifth Oregon Climate Assessment, spring snowpack has decreased by 15-30% since the 1950s—leaving many communities and ecosystems dry during the hottest part of the year.
For more on the science of snow read Hike with a Snow Scientist.
3) Ankeny National Wildlife Refuge
Ankeny National Wildlife Refuge is a convenient gem in the heart of the Willamette Valley. Just south of Salem, near the confluence of the Santiam and Willamette Rivers, Ankeny is an accessible escape from the urban environment.
The refuge offers a mixture of habitats—from marshy bottomlands and agricultural fields to oak woodlands and riparian forest—making Ankeny exceptional for wildlife viewing. Winter is a great time to visit as waterfowl and raptors are abundant.
With a variety of trails and viewing areas to choose from, Ankeny Wildlife Refuge is a great place for families and individuals of all ages to experience.
Location or Nearest Town: South of Salem, OR
Distance: 0.75 miles on the Rail Trail to Observation Blind (longer hikes possible from April 1st – Sept. 30th). Pintail & Egret Marsh Boardwalk is .25 miles. Stop at Eagle Marsh for zero miles, but with amazing views! Read more about options on the USFWS website to plan your trip.
Difficulty: Easy
When to go: Gees arrive in October/Nov and leave in April. Winter Sanctuary Season starts October 1st to March 31st
Why go: Wildlife viewing, especially birds.
Trail Curiosity: Winter Flocks
During the winter, Ankeny Wildlife Refuge becomes a haven for thousands of waterfowl that flock to the area. The Refuge lies in the Pacific Flyway—one of four major migratory routes for birds that extends from Alaska to South America. Migratory birds arrive in search of more abundant food resources and a place to rest—some species will stay out the winter in Oregon, for others, it is a pit stop on their way further south. Northern Pintail, American Wigeon, Ruddy Duck, Tundra Swan, and Northern Shoveler, are a few of the many winter visitors to the Refuge. Also, be to look for the Dusky Canada Goose, a shorter, dark-colored cousin to the cackling Canada goose, that winters exclusively in the Willamette Valley.
It is not hard to spot wintering waterfowl and year-round residents of the refuge as they tend to congregate in fields and ponds where food is plentiful. Many of the species are large enough to see, even without binoculars, and have distinct markings, making Ankeny in the winter a wonderful place for beginning birders to practice their hand at identification.
Keep in mind, wintering waterfowl are not the only birds to see. Year-round resident wading birds, like Great Blue Herons, are also fun to spot, along with songbirds hiding in the brush. But don’t forget to look up! Raptors are also spotted at higher frequency in the refuge in the winter.
4) Ona Beach to Seal Rock
Ona Beach is one of my favorite walks along the Oregon Coast. And winter, in my opinion, is the best time to visit! There is so much to see and appreciate on this short 2-mile stretch of beach!
The hike starts at the back of the Ona Beach picnic area where you cross over meandering Beaver Creek on a wooden bridge heading toward the ocean. Once on the beach, the hike continues south, following the coastline.
The geology lesson begins here. The hike takes you over a wavecut platform of sedimentary rock from the Yaquina Formation—25-22 million-year-old bedrock formed from river deposits when western Oregon was under a shallow sea. Rounded rocks known as concretions stick up from the sand, like toadstools or pedestals, atop the platform. Other rocks of various shapes and forms provide additional sculptural elements to the hike.
As you near the end of the beach, tall basalt sea stacks rise out of the ocean. Castle Rock is one of the most notable. These rocks are remnants of an approximately 15-million-year-old basalt lava flow that traveled hundreds of miles from where they originate in Eastern Oregon before touching the sea. A few small tidepools can be seen here at low tide.
Location or Nearest Town: Right off 101; south of Newport, OR.
Distance: 4.2 miles with minimal elevation gain. To extend the hike, there is a connector trail to Seal Rock State Recreation Site that can be found at the final creek crossing.
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
When to go: Dec-March when tides are moving out.
Why go: Beach access, interesting rock formations and geology, fossil and agate collecting. Some tidepools (with more at nearby Seal Rock).
Trail Curiosity: Marine Fossils.
Tens of millions of years ago, what is now the Oregon coast was under a shallow ancient sea crawling with marine life. These marine creatures lived out their days, ultimately falling to the ocean floor where sediment from Oregon’s rivers would settle on top of their dead bodies. Over time, the sediments compacted into sandstones, shales, and other sedimentary rocks, entombing the remains of these ancient marine creatures as they decomposed. The animals’ soft tissues would rot away, leaving calcified parts, like shells behind. These calcified remains would slowly become inundated with dissolved minerals from the sea that would harden into rock becoming fossilized.
Later still, these fossil-rich sedimentary rocks were uplifted by the action of plate tectonics creating the Oregon Coast Range and Coastal plain as we know it today. Now, clam and snail fossils are common along the coast anywhere the fossil-bearing sedimentary rocks are exposed and subject to weathering and erosion. Winter storms knock loose many bivalve fossils for enthusiasts to collect and enjoy.
5) McDonald-Dunn Research Forests
A short drive from Corvallis in the foothills of the Oregon Coast Range, the McDonald Dunn Forest provides many miles of trails that are open year-round. Maintained by Oregon State University for research and education, forest stands are managed with a variety of objectives in mind, resulting in varied forest structures—from young even-aged stands of Douglas-fir to mature forest reserves.
Even though the forest type is primarily Douglas-fir, it is surprising how many different unique habitat types you encounter on the trails—including sections of oak woodland and riparian buffers. There is even a small area near Soap Creek where western hemlock and western redcedar occur along with Douglas-fir. Grand fir is also present as a naturally regenerating understory throughout the forest. Other common plants to discover include: sword fern, vine maple, salal, trailing blackberry, Hooker’s fairy bells, and western meadowrue. In the spring Trillium and fairy slipper orchids are fun to look for along the trail.
Location or Nearest Town: Corvallis, OR
Distance: Varies depending on the route. Online maps are available for free for you to plan your route.
Difficulty: Easy to Difficult
When to go: Anytime!
Why go: Variety of forest structures and habitats (Douglas-fir forests, Oak woodlands, Riparian). Plus, views of the coastal mountains, hills, and forests.
Trail Curiosity: Lichen
Winters in the Pacific Northwest can be wet and dreary. Sometimes it can seem as though spring can’t come soon enough. However, as the days turn gray, an often-overlooked group of living things takes center stage—lichen.
Lichen are composite organisms—made up of two or more organisms—in this case, a fungus, algae and/or cyanobacteria. The algae or cyanobacteria is known as a photobiont—producing food via photosynthesis—and the fungus is known as the mycobiont—capturing and absorbing nutrients as fungi do. It is in this partnership that lichen succeed, living hundreds, even thousands of years growing on rocks, trees, and on the ground.
When it comes to wandering through the winter woods in the Pacific Northwest, lichen become the showstoppers.
Lichens love the rain. As other organisms wait in dormancy for better times to come, lichens come alive in the winter. When wet, their thallus (or body) is more vibrantly colored and pliable, as photosynthesis and growth is activated.
In addition, winter winds bring down a lot of lichen-covered branches to fertilize the forest floor. An added benefit of “lichen fall” is it makes lichen that grow higher in the canopy more accessible for viewing.
For more on lichen read Hike with a Lichenologist.
