Curious Hiker: William L Finely National Wildlife Refuge

Views of golden paintbrush along Refuge Road

Overview

William L. Finley National Wildlife refuge is the largest of the three refuges that make up the Willamette Valley Complex. Offering many miles of trails, the refuge showcases the diversity of habitats once prevalent in the Willamette Valley region of Oregon. Habitats featured at the refuge include, both permanent and season wetlands, oak woodland and savannah, and wet prairie. Riparian and mixed forests, as well as agricultural lands, make up much of the remaining land.  

  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Distance: 3.8 miles
  • Terrane: 680 feet elevation gain
  • Open: All year. Best late April to May.  Fender’s blue in late mid to late May, early may for wildflowers.  
  • Trailhead: Woodpecker Loop Trail Head (44.41266,-123.33221)
  • Contact: Willamette Valley National Wildlife Refuge Complex (541) 757-7236

Highlights

Wildlife viewing; birdwatching; diverse and unique habitats; fabulous wildflower displays

Need to Know

Roads to the trailhead are accessible, but gravel once you enter the refuge; No pass is required for parking; Restrooms are available on-site; Open dawn to dusk; Winter sanctuary closes some trails in winter; No running or jogging is allowed in the Refuge; No pets allowed.

Hike Description

Start your adventure on Finley Road right off 99W. Drive along slowly, taking time to look at the top of the trees for raptors.  Upon reaching the entrance to the refuge, turn left onto Finley Refuge Road and follow it to the first pullout and viewpoint.

As you look out on the expanse of land, notice its mounded topography.  This is a feature of wet prairie habitat—a habitat type that has been nearly wiped out with European habitation.  Less than 1% of wet prairie remains in the Willamette Valley from historical levels, and William L. Finley is home to the largest example of it.

Water pools in the shallow depressions in winter and spring, creating a unique environment for species to inhabit. Tufted hair grass, one-sided sedge, and dense sedge make up much of the ground cover. In the spring, common camas blooms here, turning the ground a soft purple hue. Insect’s buzz

Camas lily and insect visitors found in the wet prairie

Woodpecker Loop

Continue down the road slowly, stopping to look at the waterfowl in ponds along the gravel road. The refuge system was established primarily as a wintering ground for a subspecies of Canada geese, the Dusky, in 1954. It is now home to many wintering and year-round residents.

To get to the hiking trail, turn right at a signed junction for the Woodpecker Loop Trail. The trail gradually ascends a slope passing through oak woodland and prairie habitat. Keeping right at the junction, cross a wooden bridge and boardwalk and enter a thicket of Oregon White Oaks. Lichen coats the branches of hardwood trees.

Soon the woodland opens to the prairie. Spreading branches of the Oregon White Oak punctuate the landscape. Rounded bobbles of mistletoes haunt their upper branches.  Steller’s Jays warn others of your approach.  Enjoy the views out across the valley as you climb to an overlook. On a clear day look for the tops of the Cascade volcanoes in the distance.

The trail continues downhill passing a small pond before crossing over a swale on a boardwalk. Ash trees and sedge grow here—taking advantage of the wet ground. 

Intertie

Continue into a mixed forest habitat, where Douglas-fir and Big Leaf Maple make up much of the canopy overhead before reaching the junction for the woodpecker loop trail. Here, you can take a left to get back to the trailhead if your time is short. Otherwise, continue straight toward Mill Hill on the intertie trail.

Stay right at the next three junctions, observing the transition from mixed forest to oak savannah and woodland. Watch and listen for acorn woodpeckers and white-breasted nuthatch. In the spring, oak toothwort, and blooms along the muddy trail.

Mill Hill Loop

Reach a four-way junction and head right to begin the Mill Hill Loop. As you move further uphill Douglas-fir trees become more commonplace, competing with oak for valuable space. Eventually, you leave the oaks altogether for a forest of Douglas-fir and Big Leaf Maple, with sword fern as understory.  Stream violets, wild carrot, and bittercress grow on the shaded forest floor.

The trail bends as you reach a high point on the trail—opening to views of restored oak savanna, planted with native wildflowers, like Kincaid’s lupine, Nelson’s checkermallow, and golden paintbrush. This grass-dominated ecosystem, rich in grasses and forbs, is important to many insect species, including the endangered Fender’s blue butterfly. Birds swoop in to enjoy the feast. Elk or deer may be spotted at the forest edges. A bench situated on the trail provides an excellent vantage point to take a rest and watch the show.

Head downhill above swampy Gray Creek. Beavers occupy the site during the year and, in summer, wood ducks may be spotted. Look for moisture-loving plants nearby, including large patches of Pacific bleeding heart with their pink heart-shaped flowers and delicate intricate leaves. On the forested bank opposite the creek, Oregon grape thrives in the understory. Candy flower, giant fawn lilies, and Oregon Iris bloom here in the spring.

Bleeding heart growing on Mill Hill Trail

Continue the trail until you reach the main junction. From here, return the way you came. When you arrive at the Woodpecker Loop junction, take a right to finish that loop as well.