Field Guide to Oregon’s Coastal Conifers

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Curious about coastal conifers? Want to tell them apart? You are in the right place! This short guide will tell you all you need to know about the coniferous trees that inhabit Oregon’s Coast Range ecoregion.  Learn some fun and interesting facts about each species, as well as key identification characteristics that will help you to tell them apart.

Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)

The most common tree in Oregon is the Douglas-fir. A commercially valuable tree, it has been planted in much of the coastal mountains, where it naturally grows, reaching heights of over 250 feet.  Douglas-fir is an early successional species, established on bare mineral soil following a fire. Much of the old-growth that remains in Oregon today resulted from large fires 400 to 600 years ago. When Douglas-fir fall, they open the canopy for species, like the western hemlock to fill in the gaps.

Douglas-fir has reddish-brown bark with deep furrows, sometimes referred to as “bacon bark” for those inclined toward food analogies. However, these furrows are not as pronounced in younger trees and coloration does seem to vary. Branches swoop upwards, capturing the light. Needles are soft and arrange themselves in even whorls on each pliable branch. Look for shiny red-pointed buds at the tips of the growing branchlets. Not a true-fir, Douglas-fir cones often fall to the forest floor, a favorite food for Douglas squirrels. Douglas-fir cones are unmistakable, with three-pronged bracts that stick out from under each scale.

Western Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla)

Western hemlock is a slow-growing tree, often playing second fiddle to other conifers surrounding it.  This secondary successional species is adapted to the lower light conditions of the understory. When a tree falls in the forest, the western hemlock knows—growing opportunistically in gaps caused by windfall. Western hemlock trees often start their lives on a nurse log or small snags, taking advantage of the water and protection that the high ground offers.

Western hemlock has a gently drooping top that distinguishes it among look-alike conifers. Its large sweeping branches splay out casting shadows and scattering light. The blunt needles of western hemlock are soft and variable in length but average less than half an inch. The arrangement of the needles is messy—kind of like a toddler’s hair just out of bed. Shorter needles stick out from the branch, while the slightly longer, “tamer,” needles lay flat.  The bark of the Western hemlock is thin and gray with shallow ridges. Western hemlock produces copious amounts of small 1–3-inch brown cones, often seen scattered on the ground or growing up in its branches.

Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis)

Sitka spruce is the largest spruce species on the planet. With a diameter that can grow as large as 16 feet at its base, Sitka spruce is an impressive behemoth to behold, especially in an old-growth forest setting. Only found in a narrow band along the Oregon Coast, Sitka spruce do well throughout the fog belt and in the floodplains of rivers and streams. Despite their limited range, Sitka spruce can tolerate a lot of different coastal landscapes from salty dune islands and sandy beaches to rocky headlands and tidal swamps.   

Sitka Spruce trees have wide cylindrical trunks with grey-brown bark that looks like paint chipping of an old wall.  Its light-colored cones have papery-thin scales with jagged edges—often seen strewn along the trail in bunches. Sitka spruce can be easy to tell apart from other coastal forest dwellers by their sharply pointed needles that stick out on short pedestals on each twig in a bottle-brush arrangement. If you grab a branch in your palm it will hurt. Just remember, “Sitka will Stick-ya.” 

Western redcedar (Thuja plicata

Western redcedar with its sweeping J-shaped branches of scale-like leaves and shredded red bark is one of the most beautiful species in the Oregon coastal forests. It is also one of the most useful—indigenous peoples throughout the Pacific Northwest used the rot-resistant wood for lodges, canoes, utensils, among other things. The bark was used for basketry and to make ropes, nets, and even clothing. 

Stumps and snags of ancient western redcedar punctuate the forest, withstanding the test of time. Scattered amongst more dominant Douglas-fir trees or huddled together in small groves, western redcedar is a shade-tolerant species.  Western redcedar grows best in moist areas in the coastal fog belt.

To identify western redcedar, look for a thinly shredded bark that runs in vertical strips. Rub your hand down the bark and it won’t splinter. Its scale-like leaves are also unusual among other conifers in the region. The leaves are folded and lie flat against the tree’s branchlets—a white bloom in the shape of butterflies line the underside in organized rows. Tiny rose-shaped cones cluster in the branches and at times can be found scattered in the forest duff.

Shore Pine (Pinus contorta)

Being successful on the rugged coast can be a difficult proposition. Shore pines are adapted to that challenge by taking on the shape and form of the wind. With twisted stems and matted branches, shore pines typically only grow 65 feet tall, some much shorter. Shore pines are the same species as the erect stemmed lodgepole pine that grow to 130 feet tall throughout the west at mid to high elevations.

Some of the shore pines on Oregon’s coast are planted—put in place along with invasive dune grasses and scotch broom to stabilize a naturally shifting dune landscape.  Naturally, shore pines are highly adaptable growing in sandy, boggy, and rocky environments.

The easiest way to identify a shore pine is to look at its dark green needles—arranged in twisted pairs, they cluster at the tips of each branch. Larger wooden female cones, often curved, attach to the branches, while male pollen cones are smaller, reddish-green, and cluster at the tips. The bark of shore pine is dark, rough, and scaly.

Coast Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens)

The tallest species of conifer in on the west coast—commonly reaching heights of 300 plus feet—the coast redwood is hard to miss when you encounter it. Their great height allows them to capture fog droplets on their slender needles in the fog zone where they exclusively reside.  Lichen, moss, ferns, and even trees grow in soil that forms high above the earth. Then critters join the mix—creating unique arboreal ecosystems. Redwoods are also rare in Oregon—existing in only a few protected areas along the south coast.

Besides their height, coast redwoods can be distinguished by their massive trunks up to 23 feet in diameter. Thick reddish furrowed bark runs up the great length of the trunk and their roots often buttress near the ground.  The coast redwood has a conical crown with branches that droop slightly. Ancient redwoods have complex crowns with many trunks. The 1-inch needles of the coast redwood lay flat, flanking each branchlet. Bright green above with a white bloom below, the needles shorten as they draw near the main branch—tapering like a bird feather. On cone-bearing branches, the taper is more pronounced and the needles are sharper. The cones of a redwood tree are small and round with deep wrinkles.

Resources

Want to learn more about Oregon’s trees? Check out the books below.

Curious Hiker: McDowell Creek Falls Loop

Majestic Falls on the boardwalk

Overview

A short ramble through a mixed conifer-broad leaf forest takes you past two waterfalls that roar to life during the winter and early spring. The varied terrain and near-constant rush of water stimulate the senses as you walk. Enjoy the mist from the falls on a hot day or take refuge in the forest in the case of rain. McDowell Creek is a popular all-season hike best visited on a weekday.

Highlights

Multiple waterfalls; varied terrain; forest setting; easy access; spring wildflowers; fun hike for kids.

Need to Know

Roads to the trailhead are paved. There is plenty of parking available at the trailhead and no passes are required to park. A restroom and picnic areas are accessible at the trailhead. Dogs allowed on leash.

Hike Description

Staircase

From the parking lot look for a bridge that crosses over rushing Fall Creek. A sign with a map marks the entrance.

Bridge over Fall Creek

Hike up the dirt trail through a forest of bigleaf maple, Douglas-fir, and western hemlock—wrapped in bright green moss that drips with moisture in the rainy season. Sword fern and salmonberry grow below the open canopy.

The muddy trail continues up past a junction leading left to the base of Royal Terrace Falls on a wooden bridge. Stay right, hiking up steep stone steps with sidelong views of water rushing down Fall Creek, including a nice view of Royal Terrace Falls in profile.  

Side view of Royal Terrance Falls

At the top of the falls, cross the creek on a wooden footbridge. Western redcedar trees congregate along the creek banks, inviting one to linger. A small user trail can be explored off to the left before making your crossing.

Western red cedar trees to the right of Fall Creek before the bridge

Follow me into the Forest

Duck below the long branch of a western redcedar, as you continue uphill. Look for Oregon grape, thimbleberry, and red huckleberry, in addition to sword fern and salal, amongst the Douglas-fir and hemlock trees. Western redcedar are more commonly seen through this section of the trail, and young grand fir with their flat stiff branches may be spotted in the understory.

Western redcedar branch hanging over the trail

At an unmarked junction, follow the trail to the right. The grade eases a bit as you near the high point of the hike. Views toward the hills and valley in the distance are limited by the Douglas-firs and bigleaf maples growing along the trail.

A screen of Douglas-fir and bigleaf maple trees

Soon you will reach a road crossing and enter a forest that’s undergrowth has been overtaken by a thicket of blackberry. Both the invasive Armenian blackberry and native trailing blackberry grow here—the invasive species, as thick stalks that shoot upwards; the native, as vines that hug the ground creating a network of tripping hazards for anyone that dares walk through the prickly woods.

Blackberry dominating the undergrowth

Majestic Falls

The trail crosses another road next to a parking lot before dropping down to aptly named Majestic falls—plunging 39 feet vertically into a pool below. A red-barked pacific yew angles awkwardly overhead before you arrive at a large viewing platform.

From here, take some time to appreciate the falls—considered the most scenic in the park by many. The rocks here are 22.8-million-year-old coarse-grained anorthositic diabase—a type of volcanic rock, similar to basalt, but that cooled underground rather than at the surface.  

Majestic Falls from the viewing platform

McDowell Creek

Ignoring a set of stairs that lead uphill to the left, follow a series of wooden stairs and platforms dropping to the right. Be sure to stop at additional viewpoints along the way, as you make your way to a bridged crossing of McDowell Creek.  

View down onto the wooden stairs, platform, and bridge crossing at McDowell Creek

Follow the trail downhill passing torrents of water—McDowell creek on your left.  Pass by 14-foot Crystal Falls—a small plunging punchbowl partly hidden by streamside vegetation.

Look for edible redwood sorrel and shiny, heart-shaped leaves of false-lily-of the-valley, growing in clusters on the forest floor. Pacific Bleeding heart and Trillium bloom in the spring.

Further down, a small rock slide waterfall framed by a western red cedar and hemlock glides over bare bedrock toward a sediment-filled pool.

Unnamed rock slide falls along the trail

In less than a quarter-mile, cross the road again before reaching a wooden bridge that arches over McDowell Creek.  

Royal Terrace Falls

Shortly thereafter, arrive at another footbridge that spans Fall Creek at the base of 119 feet Royal Terrace Falls. Whitewater horsetails, stair-step over smooth rock surfaces—one with a small, eroded hole—before spilling out at the base and gliding further downstream.

View of Royal Terrace Falls before the bridge.

The terraces of the falls are made up of a variety of rock types put down tens of millions of years ago during the Little Butte Volcanics—ancestral Cascade volcanism and sedimentation.  

A bench placed just before the bridge offers an opportunity to rest and reflect.

At the far end of the bridge stands a rare Pacific yew—its red bark showing in patches beneath a green coating of moss that covers much of the bark, branches, and leaves.

Pacific yew along the trail.

A few paces from here, take a right at a junction and follow the trail less than a quarter-mile back to your car.

Top Books and Apps for Exploring Nature in the Pacific Northwest

This post contains affiliate links. Click here to read my disclosures.

Looking for the best resources to learn and explore nature while on the trail? Below is a list of Trail Scholar favorites for everything from peaks and plants to mushrooms and birds.  

Geology

Oregon Rocks! A guide to 60 Amazing Geological Sites by Marli B Miller. Mountain Press Publishing Company, 2021. Miller describes the geology of sites throughout the state in a way that is accessible and easy to understand. Colored maps and carefully selected photographs bring each site to life. As a bonus, many of the locations in this book correspond with popular hiking trails!

Beauty from the Beast: Plate Tectonics and the Landscapes of the Pacific Northwest by Robert Lillie. Wells Creek Publishers, 2015. An experienced geology professor and certified interpreter, Lillie does an amazing job of explaining how geophysical regions of the Pacific Northwest formed. Though not a field guide, this book is a great introduction to the geology of the region.  I highly recommend it!  

Roadside Geology of Oregon, 2nd Edition by Marli B. Miller, Mountain Press Publishing Company, 2014. If you are interested in a more in-depth dive into the geology of Oregon, this is the book for you! Detailed accounts of the geological landscape, along with site-specific descriptions of various roadside stops, make this a great addition to any bookshelf.

PeakFinder App. Recommended by Bob Lillie during our hike on Marys Peak, this handy little app can help you identify any prominence in the landscape while you are hiking. This is not only helpful for navigation but a lot of fun!

Birds

Birds of Oregon by Roger Burrows. Lone Pine Publishing, 2003. This book is great for beginners. Birds are organized into color-coded groups that make it easy to find the bird you are looking for. Each bird species is listed with colorful illustrations, a range map, and other important features for identification.

Birds of the Willamette Valley Region by Harry Nehls, Tom Aversa, and Hal Opperman. 2004.  This small book is the perfect size for a daypack. With full photos of each bird and a detailed description, including habitat and behaviors, this book is a must for anyone interested in Oregon birds. I find the “Did you know?” section especially delightful!

BirdNET App. A favorite of wildlife biologist, Corbin Murphy, this app allows you to record and analyze bird calls using your phone’s internal microphone. Developed by Cornell Lab of Ornithology and the Chemnitz University of Technology using machine learning, each analyzed bird call gives you a confidence rating and links to other resources to learn more about the birds you are hearing.

Plants

Oregon Wildflower Search App. This is hands down my favorite app to use on the trail. Sponsored by the Oregon Flora Project (Oregonflora.org), this free app helps you identify wildflowers, shrubs, and trees through an interactive key.  Using location, elevation, color, size, and other details about the plant, the app narrows down the possibilities and helps you identify with ease.  Plus, no service is needed for use! To learn more about OregonFlora, read about my adventures with Linda Hardison, director of the project.

Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast (Revised) by Jim Pojar and Andy MacKinnon. Lone Pine Publishing, 2014. Known by many as simply the “Pojar,” this plant identification book is a classic. Besides providing helpful identification details, drawings, and colored pictures, the “Notes” section for each plant is chock-full of natural history information and other interesting facts. There is also a section on lichen and mosses.

Trees to Know in Oregon and Washington by Ed Jenson. Oregon State University Extension Service, 2020. An updated edition of the 70-year-old classic, “Trees to Know in Oregon”, this book contains all I love about the original and more. A visual dichotomous key is included for both broadleaf and conifers that help narrow down identification. Full page descriptions of each tree provide details that help distinguish between similar species.  

Fungi and Lichen

Microlichens of the Pacific Northwest, Second Ed. by Bruce McCune and Linda Geiser. Oregon State University Press, 2009. This is the lichen book to own! Written by lichen gurus, Bruce McCune and Linda Geiser, this book provides a thorough introduction to lichen ecology and lichen identification. With colored photos and detailed information on over 200 species, it is the perfect companion for a hike in the woods. Lichenologist Joe Di Meglio also talked about the book during our hike together, as well as an online key authored by McCune and Sunia Yang.   

Mushrooms of the Redwood Coast by Noah Seigel and Christian Schwarz. Ten Speed Press, 2016. Recommended by Autumn Anglin during our mushroom hike. I picked up this book the week after our meeting, and it is a keeper! Though way too big to carry on the trail, this 570-page book (not including the index) is easy to use and very informative. I especially like the pictorial key to major mushroom groups and full-color photos with descriptions, including the ecology, of each species. It really is “a comprehensive guide.”   

All-in-One

iNaturalist App. There is a lot to love about this all-in-one citizen science app. Simply take photos on your hike and share them with a community of people that will help identify or verify your ID. I also use the app to research species I might see on a trail before I visit. It is a lot of fun to see what others are finding on the trail.

Cascadia Revealed: A Guide to the Plants, Animals & Geology of the Pacific Northwest Mountains by Daniel Mathews. Timber Press Field Guide, 2016. I really enjoy field guides by Mathews. Not only does he include great photos and identification information, but countless insights into the natural history of many of the organisms described. I especially love his short essays on everything from “Torpor and Hibernation” to “Rock Flour.”   

Curious Hiker: Alsea and Green Peak Falls Hike

Alsea Falls from the first viewpoint

Overview

Enjoy a short hike through shaded Douglas-fir and riparian forests to two delightful waterfalls along the South Fork of the Alsea River and Peak Creek.

Highlights

Waterfalls; river and creek access; wildlife potential; shaded forest.

Need to Know

Roads to the trailhead are gravel, but passable with a regular passenger vehicle. Park in the day-use area. There is amply parking here. It costs $3 for day use which is payable by cash or check. A pit toilet is available. Be prepared for little to no cell service during the drive and on the trail.

Hike Description

Alsea Falls

The hike begins at the Alsea Falls Recreation Area.  As you make your way toward the river, almost immediately you hit a junction.  Take a left here to follow a short path that follows the South Fork to Alsea Falls.

Stop at the first viewpoint along the trail for an up-close look at Alsea. The riverbed has been scoured clear of sediments, exposing slabs of solid bedrock that you can walk out if the flow is low enough.

Exposed bedrock at Alsea Falls

Continue downstream for a second look at Alsea at a distance. Look for a large log jam just downstream of the viewpoint and falls. Alsea Falls is a natural barrier for fish passage—the large woody debris acts as a marker for the end of salmonid-bearing waters.

A huge log jam below Alsea Falls

Notice the trees and shrubs along the riverbank as you make your way back upstream to where you started. In the fall, look for splashes of color along the shore where deciduous trees and shrubs are more plentiful. Bigleaf maple and vine maple both reach over the banks near Alsea Falls—framing it in bright green or yellow depending on the season.

Turn left when you get to the junction and head over the bridge that spans the South Fork of the Alsea River. Enjoy the unique perspective of the river water as it glides toward the falls as you cross. Shrubs like salmonberry and vine maple, hang over the banks offering forage for beaver and fodder for the aquatic insects and other invertebrates that call the river home. Tall skinny red alder trunks also crowd the banks.

South Fork of the Alsea River from the bridge

Green Peak Falls

On the other side of the bridge take a left at a junction, following the trail into a shaded Douglas-fir Forest toward Green Peak Falls. Mature second-growth Douglas-fir trees can be seen at intervals, while mossy arms of Bigleaf maple reach across the trail from above. Look for large old stumps—a sign of the bygone days of logging in the area.

The trail angles up along a ridge just above the South Fork of the Alsea. Young, scaley-leaved western red cedars grow tucked away among the larger trees.  Sword fern and Oregon grape make up much of the understory plants.

A mature Douglas-fir tree on the trail.

A grove of red alder surrounds the boulder-strewn stream at a small turn-off along the trail that leads to the river edge.

A grove of red alder trees along the river

Eventually, the dirt path widens at a campsite with a gravel road heading left. Follow the alder shaded gravel road, watching for trail markers that confirm you are going the correct way. Keep right past two turnoffs, threatening to get you off track.

Soon you will reach a trail junction near a large (often occupied) gravel camping spot on your right. Continue right past the site to rejoin the trail for Green Peak falls on the other side.

Follow the dirt trail that borders Peak Creek, a tributary of the South Fork of the Alsea River, through a stretch of floodplain forest and younger secondary forest.  

There are a few spots where hikers can drop down by the creek to enjoy the cool rush of water or look for signs of wildlife. Beaver are known to visit the area, foraging on the cambium of branches of western redcedar and alder that line the banks—a snack shack for beaver. Look for their trademark incisor marks on branches hanging over the water.

Beaver incisor marks on a western redcedar

Next, hike through a section of mature forest, before reaching 50-foot Green Peak Falls as it rushes down a convex rock face. Take the steps down to the base of the falls to get a better look. On a hot summer day, enjoy the cooling effect of the water spray.

Green Peak Falls at trail’s end

If the water is low enough, explore the rocky shores. You may be lucky enough to find a pile of chewed sticks scattered from upstream beaver colonies.  Look for macroinvertebrates, like caddisfly, clinging to the rocks.

Having fully explored the stream habitat, return as you came.

Curious Hiker: Cook’s Ridge and Gwynn Creek Loop

Trees scattering the light on Gwenn Creek Trail

Overview

Walk up a ridge through massive old-growth Sitka spruce to a Douglas-fir forest, before gradually descending alongside rushing Gwynn Creek and looping back on the Oregon Coast Trail. This loop highlights the majesty of Oregon’s coastal forests.

Highlights

Dynamic Old-growth forest; lush diverse vegetation; mushroom and wildflowers; well-maintained trail.

Need to Know

Trailhead is located in the Cape Perpetua Scenic Areas Visitor Center parking area (not the day use or campground). USFS Forest Recreation Pass required for parking or equivalent. Restrooms are available at the trailhead with flush toilets. Usage is high near the visitor center. Trailheads and junctions are well marked.

Hike Description

Begin at the trailhead marked “Forested Trails.” Start by following an old logging road .4 miles through Sitka spruce forest with a sword fern and salal understory. Cross over a bridge with alder trees and salmonberry growing in the drainage below before entering an old plantation stand of Sitka spruce.

Many of the trees lean or are overturned from recent storm damage along the path. Search among the forest litter and on decaying logs and stumps for mushrooms that grow abundantly here even in winter.

The start of the Cook’s Ridge Trail

Discovery Loop

Arrive at a junction for the “Discovery Loop.” Take a right to follow the trail uphill. Notice the forest change as you walk through this short .3-mile section of trail.

Larger Sitka spruce trees begin to make an appearance, along with large western hemlock. Look for trees “on stilts”—their bases sitting above the soil—the result of a starting life on a decaying log or stump that has long since broken down.

A mature western hemlock tree growing on “stilts” next to a Sitka spruce.

Cook’s Ridge

At a well-marked junction, take a right onto Cook’s Ridge Trail toward Gwynn Creek. This 1.7-mile section starts out flat before climbing steeply along a rolling ridgetop.

Marvel at the stature of large-diameter Sitka spruce trees with their “paint chip” bark found near the junction. Explore the rotting logs and jagged stumps with new growth sprouting like unruly hair. Shelf mushrooms create ladders up dead, standing trees (aka snags). A mat of moss envelops the ground and the shallow roots of spruce trees.

Moss on Sitka spruce tree roots.

As you continue up the steepening trail, observe how the forest transforms from a Sitka spruce forest to one dominated by Douglas-fir. Western redcedar trees join in the mix. Salal and patches of evergreen huckleberry become more prevalent. While trailing blackberry and redwood violet enchant the ground.

Western redcedar and Douglas-fir opposite each other on Cook’s Ridge Trail.

Gwenn Creek

Another well-signed intersection directs you right onto the Gwenn Creek Trail for a 2.6-mile descent along the south side of the ridge with Gwynn Creek below.

Again, the Douglas-fir forest is lush and multistoried. Massive Douglas-fir—some with blackened fire-scarred trunks—loom tall. Swooping branches of western hemlock with their droopy tops hang over the trail, requiring one to swoop down to stay clear. A patch of Cascade Oregon grape stands out amongst the shrub layer of sword fern, huckleberry, and salal. Clumps of deer fern run along sections of the path. Fuzzy leaf piggyback plant and more redwood violet shimmer in patches on the moist forest floor.

The trail undulates up and down through several drainages with creeks that empty into Gwynn creek below, leveling off for about a half mile before reaching the next junction. Gwynn creek is lined with alder trees that hug its banks. Fallen trees create habitat for fish and other wildlife.

Douglas-fir forest along Gwynn Creek.

Oregon Coast Trail

The final mile of the hike follows the Oregon Coast Trail through a shorter, wind-warped stand of Sitka Spruce. Take a left at a signed junction to follow the trail along the oceanfront. There are several peek-a-boo views to the Ocean and Highway-101. Feel the cool air and listen to ocean waves crashing against the rocky shores—a sure sign the Pacific is near.

To end the hike, cross the road you came in on and follow a paved path to the right up to the visitor center. There is also an option to turn left for a short detour to the rocky shore and tidepools if you are so inclined.

Rocky shores along the Oregon Coast Trail.

Mini Field Guide