Rising Waters: Hike with a Scientist in Seaside, OR

Views from Seaside toward Tillamook Head.

A few times a year the tides swell to levels much higher than are typical. These royally high tides are known as King Tides and occur over a few days period, typically in the months of November, December, and January.

With the King Tides, comes a whole host of changes to the coastline—local flooding, potentially increased erosion, and an overall increase in coastal hazard risk. However, King Tides are not necessarily something to run from. Many people flock to the coast to see the King Tides—the crashing waves and high surf are a definitive draw for many wave watchers.

King Tides also offers an opportunity to participate in some community science. Oregon King Tides Project, by the Oregon Coastal Management Program and CoastWatch, ask local Oregonians to snap some pictures of these extremely high tides and post them to their site. The goal of the project is to help coastal communities see their vulnerabilities, especially considering future climate change, so they can better adapt and prepare.

I wanted to learn more about sea level rise on Oregon’s Coast and experience the King Tides. So, I  reached out to Alessandra Burgos of Cascadia CoPes Hub to see if she was open to a coastal ramble.  She agreed.

It was time to head to the beach.

The Hike

  • Trailhead: No Official Trailhead (Start on Avenue U and end at 12th Avenue)
  • Distance: 1.5 miles one way on the pavement; the trail is level.
  • Details: Park on the street or Public Parking at the North End of the Promenade. Public restrooms at North End. The promenade is open to hiking/running and biking. It is a popular spot and can be very busy.

Here Comes the King

It was a mostly sunny winter day during king tides week when Ali (Alessandra) and I met for a walk along the Seaside waterfront. If you want to talk about the ocean, it helps to have a clear view of it as you go.

Immediately, Ali’s dark brown eyes scanned the surf. The waves were coming in fast and there wasn’t much beach left uncovered. The tide was in, way in. 

“I have never been here before,” Ali confessed, “but I would imagine the beach is usually much bigger.”

I tried to imagine what it might look like on a “normal” day. Even having been there, I couldn’t picture it.

“It would be nice to have a before and after,” I confessed.

Before and after picture aside, what we were seeing were king tides—unusually high-water levels at high tide that were expected to continue for the next few days. Begging the question—why?

Ebb and Flow

“What happens with tides is you have the gravitational pull of the moon, which is the strongest force,” Ali explained.

You may have heard that the moon creates tides—and this is mostly true. As the Earth rotates and the moon revolves around the Earth, its gravitational pull causes the ocean to bulge in the direction the moon is facing. This bulge is dragged around the Earth, like a magnet, as it rotates. There is also a bulge opposite the moon due to a lack of gravitational pull by the moon at this alignment.

However, that is not the entire story. As Ali explained: “Then you also have the gravitational pull of the sun, and even though the sun is bigger, it is further away so you don’t get as big a pull.”

However, when the sun, moon, and Earth are in alignment—you get a very high, high tide and a very low, low tide.

“For king tides, everything is in a perfect wonderful alignment,” Ali explained. “The moon is either a full moon or new moon… “ and is in line with the Earth and Sun. This causes a higher gravitational pull on the oceans causing these king tides.

At the time of our hike, it was a new moon. In a couple of days, the king tides would be at their peak. 

“You can see over there it is higher than normal and those wonderful waves rolling in,” Ali pointed out toward the ocean waves again. They were really moving.

The water level at near high tide with waves rolling in.

1 Tide, 2 Tides, 4 Tides, More

“Why do we get two tides here?” I asked next as we sauntered our way down a path to the packed sandy beach.

“That [slightly] has to do with where you are in latitude [because of how the continents are spread out],” Ali responded. “And [mostly] it has to do with the shape of the ocean basin.”

She also reminded me that we have two bulges making their way around the Earth in a 24-hour period, so there are both two high tides, and two corresponding low tides.

If there were no continents there would be 2 equally proportioned high and low tides every lunar day. The land masses block the movement of the tidal bulge resulting in different tidal patterns. On the West coast, we experience mixed semidiurnal tides meaning “You have a high, high tide, low, high tide, low, low tide, and high, low tide… four tides,” Ali listed the different tides, but it came out more like a tongue twister.

We were walking the beach during our high, high tide.

Most places on the Earth experience two tidal cycles. However, there are some places that have only one high tide due to the shape of the ocean basin. The Gulf of Mexico, for example, has diurnal tides, experiencing one high tide and low tide on a lunar day.

A Rough Start

Ali and I headed north along the sandy beach—the waves rolled in a short distance away from us. I asked Ali to share a little about herself and how she ended up in her current position.

“I grew up on the East Coast in Philadelphia. Went to school at Rutgers in New Jersey where I was a meteorology major,” Ali began.

She always had an interest in the weather and was planning to be a broadcast meteorologist when she finished college. But her plans changed when Hurricane Sandy hit New Jersey during her Freshman year of college.

“You saw the destruction… you saw all the trees down, during the night transformers blowing up, huge lines at the gas station… so that really formed what I wanted to do with my life.”

After that Ali became more interested in flooding and the Oceans. She went on to study oceanography at Old Dominion University in Norfolk, VA where she earned a Master of Science.

“Norfolk, VA is home to the largest Navy base in the world,” Ali explained.  “So, as you can imagine, they were very interested in mitigating against sea level rise.”

Rising to New Challenges

After that, Ali moved to Washington D.C. as a Sea Grant Knauss fellow and was introduced to policy and worked on coastal resiliency issues.

“Then the pandemic hit, and I lost my job at the time,” Ali went on. “My friend was moving to Portland, and I always wanted to visit the west coast, so I packed up and came here.”

Finally, after a short stint at UC Santa Barbara, Ali was hired by Oregon State University in her current position—program manager for the Cascadia Coastline Peoples Hazard Research Hub, or Cascadia CoPes Hub.

“I have been there a year,” said Ali. “It has been a whirlwind of information… There are over 90 people associated with the project now.”

That is a lot to manage.

Ali Burgos posing for a picture on the promenade.

Collaboration

We hiked on, the sun warming us and the sand firm under our feet. Ali told me more about Cascadia CoPes Hub in fits and starts as we walked along taking in the scenery.

“In a nutshell, It’s a 5-year funded project from the National Science Foundation. We are trying to help coastal communities in the Pacific Northwest increase their coastal resiliency,” explained Ali.

Cascadia CoPes Hub is a newer collaborative (it started only about 6 months before Ali was hired) with multiple teams working on different aspects of coastal hazards research and outreach. Ali outlined the focus of each team.

Team 1 is geohazards. This team deals with research around earthquakes, tsunamis, and landslides.

Team 2 is coastal inundation. This team is looking at sea level rise, erosion, flooding, and overall storminess.

Team 3 is community adaptation. Team 3 wants to know what coastal communities are thinking—what do people value? What do they perceive as threats? And how do they get that information?

“This is where the social scientists live,” said Ali. 

Team 4 is the STEAM team. STEAM stands for science, technology, engineering, art, and math. And the goal of this team is to bring underrepresented students into STEAM through a fellowship program.

And finally, Team 5 is community engagement and co-production.

“Coproduction is kind of a buzzword in research right now,” Ali explained. “Coproduction is working outside your discipline or field to create new ideas, solutions, and knowledge.” It often involves working with communities, state agencies, as well as other academics.

“We keep growing… There were 60 people when I started, and now there are 90 plus.”

Fading from Gray to Green

As we hiked on the broad plain of sand, Ali pointed out just how low-lying the beach was.

“If you look at the beach here,” she remarked pointing about, “we are as flat as flat can be.” Not a good place to be if the water came up too high in a storm—not a lot of protection.

However, looking over toward the City of Seaside, a low wall wrapped along the promenade in front of all the buildings—wouldn’t that offer some protection?

“Over there we have some seawall,” Ali said, pointing to the structure. 

Ali referred to the wall as a form of grey infrastructure—a manmade structure built for, in this case, protection from flooding and storms. 

“I am not a fan, personally,” she went on. “It has its merits in certain situations, but seawalls can cause more erosion of the beach… And how tall do you make it?”

Seaside waterfront properties with seawall in front.

As if on cue, the open sand we were walking shifted—wide mounds of grassy sand dunes rose up in front of us.

“These are green infrastructure,” Ali explained. “This will help block wave energy during storms.”

Unlike seawalls, dunes collect sand, rather than letting it erode. As natural-based features, dunes can grow and change over time. “Plus, it can help with habitat,” Ali added.

“Natural and nature-based features are what people are going more towards,” said Ali.

Ali also mentioned cobble revetments as another example of grey-green infrastructure.  Essentially, a berm made of pebbles or cobbles mimics natural rocky beaches—water can move through the rocks, while sand can still build up.

“This is a great dune system,” Ali smiled as we headed through the dunes on what little beach was left. 

Low dunes along the northern stretch of the promenade.

On Shaky Ground

Soon the beach was all but gone and Ali and I decided to move to the pavement. We took some stone steps up and onto the Seaside promenade and continued our walk north.

As we walked, I asked Ali how she felt about the earthquake and tsunami hazards in the Pacific Northwest.

“It is definitely something I grapple with moving here,” Ali responded.

For those that haven’t heard, the Pacific Northwest is predicted to experience a high magnitude (possibly 9+) megathrust earthquake in the next 50 years. Current predictions estimate a 37% chance of a 7.1+ in the next 50 years according to oregon.gov. This will also result in huge tsunamis up and down the coast.

“What is most interesting about that is human perspectives—trying to understand how people see their vulnerability,” Ali continued. “It is easy to go day by day, especially if you don’t have past experience, to become very complacent.”

Sign at the end of the promenade marking the tsunami evacuation route.

Keeping Perspective

I asked Ali what she thought people should be doing considering the megathrust and tsunami risk in Oregon.

She suggested keeping things in perspective. Yes, there is a risk associated with visiting and living on the coast, but it is still very small.

“Even on my drive down this morning, I get anxiety about coming over here,” she confessed.

However, she also knows that the odds are in her favor.

“I am more likely to get injured in my drive,” she added.

So, what should people visiting or living on the coast focus on? Being prepared. That is what her research cooperative is trying to do—help people know how best to do this on a place-by-place basis.

“What is the most important thing to know to prepare?” I asked.

“I think the biggest thing is to know your evacuation route,” Ali suggested. “Many people don’t know which way to go, especially if you’re visiting.”

Whenever the Cascadia megathrust earthquake hits, there will be little time to move to high ground—perhaps as little as 10-20 minutes at best. So, look at the evacuation maps ahead of time and have a plan A and a plan B.

On cue, Ali and I reached the end of the promenade trail, where a tsunami evacuation map was prominently posted.

“Moving here, I learned a lot more about earthquakes and tsunamis than maybe I want to know,” Ali laughed nervously.

I hear that, Ali. 

Map of the tsunami evacuation route was posted at the end of the promenade.

Winter is Coming

Upon reaching the end of the trail, Ali and I about-faced for a return journey. This time we stuck to the paved walk that took us past the waterfront buildings—just a seawall in some spots for protection. Our conversation pivoted back to issues with high water. Ali was going to be speaking for the King Tides Community Science Initiative the following day about sea level rise, and with King Tides rolling in, it seemed important that we return to coastal inundation. Plus, I had a lot of questions.

On the top of my mind was winter—why were king tides so notable in the winter? I asked Ali.

“They are worse in the winter,” she responded, “because of the Earth’s orbit around the sun. We are closer to the sun in the winter so the gravitational pull is stronger… winter king tides are going to be stronger.”

One of the biggest Earth Science misconceptions is that the Earth is farther from the sun in the Northern Hemisphere winter, resulting in a change in seasons, but the opposite is true. Fun fact, seasonal shifts have more to do with the tilt of the Earth in relation to the sun. (You have just been scienced!)

Additives

Then of course there are the potential additive effects of storms which are more common on the Oregon coast in winter. I asked Ali to explain how storm surge and waves play a role in water levels.

“Storm surge is basically when you have a storm coming up the coast. You have low atmospheric pressure… with a lot more wind. The winds and pressure are forcing the water up—that is basically your storm surge. This can be coupled with high tides, which could make flooding worse.”

Ali explained how the wind is a result of pressure differences along the Earth, which are greater in the winter. And high winds equal bigger waves, which have harmful effects.

“Winter storms come through and produce a lot more wave energy,” Ali explained. “Those big waves can move sand around, cause erosion, and bring in a lot of debris.”

Both storm surges and big waves happen all the time, but with high tides, the consequences are magnified.

Rise Up

So, what about sea level rise, overall? What can we expect there?

There are two major contributors to sea level rise, according to Ali: 1) melting glaciers from Greenland and Antarctica, and 2) warming oceans.

How melting glaciers contribute to sea level rise is straightforward: glaciers add water from the land into the ocean, literally filling up the global bathtub, as it were.

Warming oceans affect sea level in a different way—causing the same amount of water to take up more space. As the water warms, the water molecules move apart in their higher energy state, taking up more space—something called thermal expansion. 

Variability

Of course, there is some variability.

“Thermal expansion and ice melt aren’t uniform,” explained Ali.

Plus, there are other factors having an effect including changes in currents due to climate change and differences in vertical land movement.

There are sea level rise hot spots, as well as places that aren’t seeing any sea level rise at all.

Luckily, sea level rise has been slower along the Oregon coast overall—mostly because the land is rising too, counteracting sea level rise in some locations.

“Global mean sea level rise is 3.4 mm,” said Ali. “Oregon is not anywhere near that.”

Another El Niño

Then there is natural variability related to whether we are in a La Niña or El Niño year.

“ We have been in a La Niña for the past three years,” explained Ali.

La Niña brings colder weather and more precipitation to the Pacific Northwest.

“Which is great for skiing,” she chimed.

In an El Niño year, the oceans will warm—which could lead to greater thermal expansion and other issues associated with a warmer climate.

“And with climate change,” Ali added, “they may become more frequent and more severe.

“The biggest thing with sea level rise is your basic water gets higher—everything is happening on a higher base,” Ali explained.

In other words, a higher sea level means a higher storm surge and high wave energy eroding places it never reached before. King tides would be higher than they are now, and the next El Niño year, more severe. 

Act Now

“What should we do?” I asked Ali.

“Our oceans are rising, that is fact,” Ali responded. “How much and when, is the biggest thing to think about, and what do emergency managers need to think about.”

More specifically, Ali recommended creating more natural and nature-based features on the coast as the first line of defense against inundation.

Another option—is managed retreat. Managed retreat is a planned process of moving buildings and people further inland to avoid hazards and risks.

“Managed retreat isn’t popular, but something to think about,” said Ali.

Ali was quick to add that, managed retreat isn’t something that she is in a rush to see happen in Oregon. Oregon isn’t facing a sea level rise crisis currently, so it probably isn’t as important a strategy right now. However, in the broad scheme of things, Ali was clear that managed retreat is important to adapt to sea level rise. 

Predicting the Future

We were nearing our starting point on the promenade when we passed by a decorated tree or bush opposite the seawall. I snapped a picture. It seemed important for some reason. An emblem of the community perhaps?

Considering the community, what is the future of sea level rise?

“Sea level rise is exponential right now,” Ali told me as we walked. “Not on a linear increase. The rate is getting faster.”

“Why is that?” I asked.

“Warming and melt is on a lag, “ Ali explained. “Even if we stopped emissions right now, the oceans will continue to rise.”

And continue to rise, in theory, indefinitely.

“It is hard sometimes,” Ali paused. “People say ‘you are just doom and gloom’… There is a fine balance to walk—understanding the risks but knowing there is something we can do.”

Holiday “tree” along the promenade.

 Incoming Storm

Ali and I were still discussing sea level rise when we got to the point where we could see the waves and an access point to the beach. 

“The water is straight up to the edge,” Ali proclaimed referring to our coastal view. “High tide today is about 8-9 feet. It is normally 2-4 feet.”

We headed down to check out the waves from a better vantage point.

As we walked out toward the pounding waves, Ali told me more about ocean waves and how they are generated.

“The wave energy is coming from the wind,” she began. The longer the fetch (the length of water that the wind can blow without being blocked) the more energy can be imparted into the ocean allowing waves to grow larger.

She went on to explain how the low-pressure system that generates the storm also has a small effect by pushing water up due to the inverted barometer effect.

“If you have low pressure the water is going up. High pressure it gets pushed down,” Ali described. 

All that said, it was clear to Ali that a storm system was on its way.  Waves were rushing up fast, breaking quickly, and curving ferociously—all signs of an incoming storm.

“They [the waves] are definitely stronger,” she remarked as we stopped and stared. “And it’s happening pretty far offshore… and getting those nice curves to them.”

I looked out toward the ocean to try and see what Ali was seeing. I hadn’t considered this idea before—that I could look at the ocean and predict the future.

Staring out at the rhythmic movement of the incoming waves—it all started falling into place.

Reflections

Our oceans are sending us warning signals. They warn us of storm systems coming through hours to days in advance. But more than that, they warn us of impending changes to our planet that we can’t afford to ignore.

Visiting the coast during king tides can be a lot of fun—people flock to the coast to see the massive waves and enjoy the pounding surf—but they are also a reminder that our planet is changing. 

Our oceans are warming quickly, and the global sea level is rising, resulting in a multitude of changes to Earth and human systems.

The signs are there. We just need to learn how to see them.

Alessandra (Ali) Burgos a project manager for Cascadia Coastlines and Peoples Hazards Research Hub with Oregon State University. Ali earned a Bachelor of Science in Meteorology at Rutgers University and a Master of Science in oceanography at Old Dominion University.

Fish and Fungi: Hike with a Fish Biologist 

View of the forest from the trail

The land and ocean may seem like separate entities—one solid and secure and the other a watery depth—but the connection between the two is multifold and profound.

Salmonids provide one such connection. Salmon are considered anadromous, meaning they travel between their freshwater birthplace, to the ocean, and back. Upon returning home, they spawn the next generation of salmon before they inevitably die—completing their lifecycle.

By feeding in the ocean for anywhere from two to seven years, depending on the species, salmon bring marine nutrients to the terrestrial environment. Streamside vegetation gets anywhere from just under 25% to 70% of its nitrogen from salmon. Studies have shown in at least some instances, trees grow faster near salmon nesting grounds.

Salmon are also culturally important fish—providing food for people of the Pacific Northwest for thousands of years.  And, in modern times, salmon fisheries have grown in scale and significance. As a result, salmon have also received a lot of attention from the scientific world.

Yet, despite the vast amount of research done on salmon, there is still a lot that is unknown about salmonid species, especially when it comes to their time spent in the ocean.

This is where Laurie Weitkamp comes in. A marine ecologist with NOAA, Laurie has been studying salmon her entire career—working to understand their complex behaviors and lifestyles to better inform fisheries management. In recent years, she has joined multi-week expeditions in the Pacific Ocean in pursuit of a better understanding of their marine life.

I met with Laurie at a local trail in Newport with the hopes of gaining keener insight into her research. We also planned to hunt for chanterelle mushrooms along the way.

Fish and fungi—now there is nothing more Pacific Northwest than that!

Conserving Fish

Laurie and I began our hike on a gravel road shaded by Sitka spruce and western hemlock—a quintessential coastal forest. It had rained a lot the night before, but this morning was mild and comfortable as we followed the road downhill.

As we walked, I asked Laurie for a quick bio.

“I have been a research fisheries biologist for the Northwest Fisheries Science Center—one of, I think, six regional Centers around the country, and part of NOAA fisheries,” Laurie described. “I have been doing this for 30 years now.”

“Congratulations,” I exclaimed. “That is an accomplishment.”

So, what has Laurie been up to these last 30  years?

It turns out, quite a lot!

Laurie is a salmon biologist with a strong focus on salmon conservation. One of her main projects over the years has been to provide 5-year status updates on West Coast Coho—a  threatened salmon species under the Endangered Species Act. In fact, she was the lead author of the West Coast Coho Status Review which led to its original listing back in 1994-95.

“We just finished our status review update with data from 2019,” said Laurie.

You couldn’t tell just by looking at her, but Laurie is a rockstar salmon biologist.

Hatchery Fish Problem

As Laurie and I continued following the gravel path, we got to talking about the hatchery fish problem. 

Hatchery fish are ubiquitous. Bred to improve salmon populations, but they have taken a toll on wild population fitness.

In fact, according to Laurie, stray hatchery fish was a major factor in the original ESA listing for Coho. 

“Hatchery fish are essential to fisheries,” Laurie explained, but when we don’t keep tabs on them, that creates a problem. “You can’t tell what is going on [to wild populations],” in that case.

“There is a lot of evidence that when you get all of these hatchery fish it depressed the fitness of wild populations,” Laurie went on.

There are studies that have shown this. Breed a wild fish with a hatchery fish and they have fewer offspring. Though it is unclear why.

For these reasons, Laurie has differentiated between hatchery fish and wild fish populations in her conservation and policy work.

Wild populations “are the building blocks,” she explained. “They are critical to the continuation of the species,” deemed “evolutionarily significant.”

Stay Wild

Therefore, to keep wild populations wild, a few things needed to change.

Fortunately, a lot has changed since the original ESA listings.

“One of the things the state of Oregon did is close down all the Oregon Coast hatcheries. We went from eight million to 300,000 hatchery fish, so they effectively shut down.”

The other thing that changed is Oregon started marking hatchery fish by removing their adipose fin before releasing them.

“It is all automated,” said Laurie. “They go into a slot, measure how long the fish is… and clip…thousands are done per hour.”

The results of these changes have been positive.

For one, the “wild population increased in productivity by 25%,” said Laurie.

Second, these “evolutionarily significant” wild fish are protected from fishermen. “

You aren’t allowed to keep anything that has an adipose fin,” Laurie explained. “That is huge! And in response to ESA listing.”

Change is a Coming

The ESA listing of salmon species has resulted in other changes as well.

For example, land policy has changed. Laurie mentioned the Oregon Forest Practices Act update—requiring larger buffer zones on streams to protect fish.

Despite these changes, salmon populations are still struggling. Marine heatwaves have knocked down populations. And no ESA-listed salmon population has been delisted.

For some, this may be seen as a failure, but not for Laurie.

“It is impressive,” she stated. “None have been taken off, but none have gone extinct.”

And there have been some wins too. Laurie told me that about 1 million sockeye returned to the Columbia this year to spawn. Perhaps the largest sockeye run since the Columbia River dams went in back in the 1930s.

Not bad, considering what salmon are up against.

Segue into Research

As we continued past more second-growth Sitka spruce on moss and fern-covered slopes, we saw someone coming from the opposite direction with a basket of chanterelles—the popular mushroom that we planned to hunt for that day.

Laurie playfully asked if had left some behind. He offered a quick “no” and a chuckle. Laurie laughed too, undeterred. Her positivity was infectious.

Then Laurie gracefully segued into her research work.

“I am trying to understand what goes on in the Ocean,” Laurie explained.

You may recall, salmon are anadromous fish. They are born in freshwater, but then spend a lot of their lives in the Ocean—some salmon species up to 7 or 8 years—before returning to their natal stream to spawn. 

“A vast majority of the little guys don’t make it back,” said Laurie. “Some 95-99% of salmon that enter the Ocean do not survive…. That is kinda the odds.”

Laurie was quick to clarify that these odds are not unusual or necessarily related to human impacts. It is their survival strategy.

“The average female lays 3000 eggs,” said Laurie, “two need to survive.”

So, the question is Why? Why do so few salmon make it back?

This is the question Laurie has been aiming to answer.

Bottom-up

According to Laurie, there are two main approaches to consider when it comes to salmon loss—either top-down or bottom-up. The bottom-up approach considers how populations are controlled by the organisms at the trophic level below them, i.e., their food.

In the case of salmon, it requires looking at prey availability for the species. Depending on the species, this might be krill, jellyfish, or smaller forage fish.

So, what does Laurie’s research suggest regarding this bottom-up approach?

“If the water is cold and there is a lot of prey available,” said Laurie, “[salmon] do well.”

In other words, both cold temperatures, which help with upwelling and make the Ocean more productive, and food availability work together to regulate salmon.

According to Laurie, there is a lot of evidence that points to bottom-up being “really important.”

It is also relatively easy to study—just catch a few salmon and look in their stomachs—but it is only half the equation.

Top-down

A top-down approach suggests the opposite—that populations are controlled by organisms at the trophic level above them, i.e. their predators.

Salmon predators are numerous and become even more numerous as the oceans warm.

“When the water is really warm,” explained Laurie, “you get warm water predators that come up [from the south],” like hake or pacific whiting.

“Hake are incredibly abundant fish,” said Laurie.

Normally summer guests, with ocean warming, hake are extending their stay in the Pacific Northwest for a longer amount of time.

I Hake you

At this point, you may be thinking:

So, just how much salmon are hake consuming?

Turns out the answer is complicated.

Laurie told me about a study she was involved in that looked at how much mackerels and hake predated on salmon as they came out of the Columbia. They sampled thousands of these predators’ stomachs for about ten years and found less than a dozen salmon in their stomach contents.

“Salmon are pretty rare,” Laurie explained. “There are a hundred times more other anchovies out there that they [mackerels and hake] are feeding on.”

To add to the difficulty, the stomach contents of any fish only reflect the last 24 hours of feeding. Eat a salmon on Tuesday, by same time Wednesday, any sign that the feeding took place is gone.

Take Terns

Seabirds, like terns and cormorants, are another predator of salmon that scientists are watching.

In this case, some researchers are using tagged salmon to monitor their predation.

“They [the researchers] put pit tags in individual fish,” Laurie explained. As the birds eat the fish, they also consume their pit tags.

“Then they go over the tern and cormorant colonies after they left in winter or fall… They run over the thing and detect the salmon that were eaten and pooped out in the bird colonies.”

Counting pit tags, “those are the easy situations,” Laurie admitted.

In short, “Predation is really hard to study.”

Chanterelles

We had been hiking for about 45 minutes when we passed one of Laurie’s chanterelle spots. The ground was covered in moss and growing thick with salal and evergreen huckleberry. Tall Sitka spruce trees with their cylindrical trunks made up the overstory.

“It has not been a very good chanterelle year,” Laurie remarked as she searched the edge of the woods.

However, soon enough Laurie found one of the golden beauties.

“Chanterelles look like that,” Laurie held up her find, “with an irregular shape… and they have branched gills that are primitive gills.”

In contrast, false chanterelles have an uneven coloring compared to chanterelles—“dark in the middle and light on edges.” False chanterelles also have true gills that fork near the cap margins. 

There were a lot of false chanterelles.

Nutrient Connection

As we searched the area for more chanterelles, I asked Laurie if there was any connection between salmon and chanterelles.

Her answer was a brisk “no,” but just as quickly, she reconsidered. Laurie had a quick wit about her.

“Well habitats that are good for chanterelles are also good for salmon,” she noted.

It turns out I was in the right habitat at that moment—soon I had a couple of good-sized chanterelles in my possession.

“Found two!”

Speaking of seconds, I suggested to Laurie another connection between salmon and chanterelles—nutrients.

Salmonids have a unique role in nutrient cycling—they carry marine nutrients from the ocean to inland areas. From here, fungi help decompose the dead salmon bodies, or the waste generated from an organism that consumed their bodies, releasing those marine nutrients to fertilize the coastal forest. 

“There is all kinds of work that shows that trees grow faster along salmon runs,” Laurie observed.

She also mentioned the role lamprey, another anadromous species, plays in fertilizing the forest.

“It is really cool because they bring up nutrients as well,” said Laurie. “They can go up vertical surfaces…” she explained, “and they can get into places salmon cannot, and fertilize streams that salmon cannot.”

At this point we had exhausted our chanterelle patch, so we headed back to the road.

Not long after, we passed by a disturbed area where I noticed a stand of skinny alder trees. Dark green alder leaves lay scattered on the ground—another good fertilizer. Fish fungi, and trees—all helping keep the forest green.

Hiking next to a grove of alder with salmonberry understory on the left

High Seas

We were about halfway through our hike when we turned onto another road.  The plan was to travel it for a while before taking a bike path back to complete a loop. This was our migratory route.  But what of our fish?

As mentioned earlier, salmon move from freshwater to the ocean and back again—sometimes spending years fattening up in a marine environment. But, last I checked, the ocean is huge.

Which begs the question—where do salmon go once, they reach the deep blue?

“They head north,” Laurie asserted. Or at least most do.

Sockeye, chum, and coho all head up to Cape Flattery then onto Canada and Alaska, according to Laurie. They follow the continental shelf for a season, their paths tracked as they pass various outposts along the way, before dropping off the shelf and entering the “deep sea.”

Though, they may as well be dropping off the face of the Earth because, at that point, they could be anywhere.

“We don’t see them again until they come home,” explained Laurie. “It is like a huge washing machine out there.”

It is Laurie’s work to visit the washing machine, but more on that later.

Keeping Track

As we crunched along the gravel road, I asked Laurie to tell me more about how scientists were tracking fish.

Even before salmon enter the deep sea, they are difficult to track. As Laurie put it—“we get mixed results.”

“The number of fish you need to tag to get robust results has been really limited,” she explained.

At the same time, knowing the populations and how they are doing is important work. Salmon are valuable and cross [international ]borders.

Laurie told me about the Fraser Sockeye, for example—a large and extremely valuable fish. So valuable that a treaty was established between several tribes of western Washington, the U.S. government, Canada, plus U.S. states and Canadian provinces to ensure the fishery is sustainable.

So, tracking matters because salmon matter. They matter enough for international treaties to be enacted.

Fish are tracked in several ways. When it comes to the Fraser Sockeye, acoustic tags are used. These send out unique radio signals, allowing you to identify individual fish. The drawback is you need receivers close enough to hear the signal.

“The continental shelf in some areas is 30 miles wide. That is a lot of real estate,” Laurie proclaimed.

Another option is to use satellite tags. A benefit of satellite tags is that you can see where the fish is, as well as other data like temperature, pressure, and depth from anywhere. The drawbacks are that you must get the tag back to download all the data and, because of the size of the tags, only older adult fish can carry them.

Laurie told me about a study using satellite tags where researchers were getting a slightly elevated constant temperature reading from their chinook for a long period of time.  

“What they think is that salmon sharks were consuming these Chinook,” Laurie laughed. The constant temperature was recorded from inside the digestive tracks of the salmon sharks. 

Eaten

A break in the trees brightened the path as we reached a high point in the trail. Though the sky was overcast with clouds, the light from the sun cast a dim reminder of its existence through the gray shroud.

Laurie shifted the conversation back to her work on the high seas. This is where things get even more murky.

Laurie started by talking about her work detecting salmon predators on the high seas.

“It is really hard to figure out,” Laurie stated. “It is hard to tell who is doing the predating and when…. Are they [predators] only getting the small fish [salmon] or the sick fish [salmon]?”

In 2019, 2020, and 2022, Laurie and her team did an extensive study of salmon predators using eDNA and didn’t find many.

eDNA is a newer technology, where water samples are gathered and sent into a lab to be tested for the DNA of species of interest, like salmon predators. Because organisms are constantly sloughing off DNA, this is a good way to gauge the presence of a species even when it is not caught in nets.

“We found a couple of predatory salmon sharks and a couple of fish, lancetfish, and daggertooths, that eat strips of salmon…,” said Laurie.

“They aren’t here. We are not catching them in the nets or detecting their DNA.”

Starving

So, what is going on?

Another “arm-chair hypothesis” is that the salmon are starving during the winter. Salmon that don’t get fat over the summer don’t survive onces winter arrives. This would be especially important for small fish because they can’t store much energy.  Laurie and her team tested this hypothesis.

“We get out there and ocean age 1 fish are going great, but 2s and 3s are not looking great,” said Laurie. “They are really skinny.”

They took blood samples of the fish to test for Insulin Growth Factor (IGF)—a chemical that signals healthy growth in fish. As expected, fish that were in the ocean for 1 year, have high levels of IGF.

But those in year 2 or 3 had either really high levels or really low levels.  They also had green gallbladders—a sign of starvation.

“What’s going on?” asked Laurie.

It is still unclear.

“You answer one question,” Laurie smiled, “and you generate five.”

Do We Stay or Do We Go

Not all salmon spend a lot of time in the ocean, however,“it depends on the species”—a statement I heard a lot from Laurie.

Chum and sockeye are really the only ones with an extended high seas stay.

“What we think happens is they spend winters in the Gulf of Alaska and move into the Bering Sea in the summer until they are ready to come home.”

“Others are only a year,” said Laurie, like Coho.

Then there is fall chinook…

“Fall chinook stay on the continental shelf,” said Laurie. They travel back and forth along the coast for years before returning.

Every species has its own way.

“What is really cool is the whole idea of these chum salmon ages 2 and 3 being skinny. All different stocks are together in the Bering Sea.”

Bang for your Buck

Laurie and I reached our turn-off onto a mountain biker trail. Steep and a little slippery, we both carefully navigated our way down the path.

Laurie pointed out a patch of slippery jack mushrooms as we passed by.

“People do eat them,” she noted, but their slimy appearance didn’t appeal to either of us, so we trod on. 

“Anyway, there is all kinds of really cool stuff we are finding being out there [at sea],” Laurie proclaimed. She had a knack for transitions. “It is also really expensive… 32 days at $30,000 per day.”

With that sort of price tag, a lot of work happens before these expeditions to plan and prepare. Using freshwater data and developing hypotheses are vital steps to take beforehand. 

“The idea is we are trying to get the most bang for our buck…” Laurie explained.  “Using the information [from other sources] so when we are not out there, we can still understand what is going on.”

Food for Thought

While we were talking, suddenly Laurie made bee-lined it off the trail—a massive burnt orange-colored lobster mushroom was growing just off the trail.

“Wow!” Laurie exclaimed, “I don’t think I have ever seen this large a lobster. These are one of my favorites!”

Unfortunately, it was a bit too old and soft to take home and eat, but we took a picture of it to commemorate the find.

“Still cool…” Laurie said as she put it down on the mossy ground.

My mind turned to food, I asked—“What are they eating?”

“Depends on the species,” said Laurie.

Hmmm, that sounds oddly familiar.

“Sockeye and Pink salmon eat low in the food chain—a lot of zooplankton.”

Sockeye’s red flesh is a result of carotenoids from zooplankton being incorporated into their tissue.

“So, the chum are famous for eating a lot of gelatinous stuff,” Laurie continued, “like jellyfish and evolutionary dead ends, like tunicates, they tend to like.”

“Coho, Chinook, and steelhead start with zooplankton and graduate to larval and juvenile fish and squid.”

Laurie with a massive lobster mushroom

It’s Getting Hot in Here

Soon we were off the biker trail and on another gravel road. We passed by some salmonberry shrubs—“any connection there?” I asked, referring to salmon.

“Nope, they just look like their eggs,” said Laurie. That’s what I thought, but worth an ask.

We passed by some more possible chanterelle spots, but only picked one more immature mushroom.

We climbed up onto a small, forested hill next to a creek to check for chanterelles. The hill was dense, shaded, and cool.

While we foraged around, I asked Laurie what she thought the underlying issues were for salmon success. Does it come down to getting enough food?

Though she agreed that food was a big part of it, she was quick to point out that it was probably not just one thing, but rather a host of interacting factors.

High ocean temperatures, for example, impacts many of the other factors associated with salmon success, including food availability.

“The ocean absorbs 90% of the excess heat that we have been putting into the atmosphere,” Laurie stated. “Climate warming is really ocean warming. Even below 5000 meters, it is getting warmer.”

Ocean warming is a factor that cannot be ignored.

Beaver Believers

A murky creek slogged along a the bottom of the forest.

“That is great coho salmon,” said Laurie. “They love side channels in the winter.”

Coho salmon are Laurie’s specialty, having studied them more than any other species. Though a coastal species, they spend a lot less time in the ocean than other species—only a year, though some males may only spend six months—and more time in freshwater.

I asked Laurie if she could tell me anything else about coho that makes them unique. Her response—beaver.

“Coho benefits the most from returning beavers,” said Laurie. “They really do well with beaver ponds.”

Beaver are what are called ecosystem engineers—they transform bottomlands, creating ponds pools, and wetlands.  As Laurie put it, “They create “killer coho habitat.” 

Laurie told me about early coho research she did in 1987 in Alaska. They would follow the coastal streams up, stopping at each beaver pond to catch count, measure, and weigh coho. Even five beaver dams up, they were still catching coho.

“Coho were flourishing in these beaver ponds,” said Laurie. “They know how to get through the dams.”

Young steelhead and spring chinook love riffles and high mountain streams. Not coho. They like low-gradient streams with connected floodplains.

And of course, they love beavers. 

Own up

However, good coho habitat is not easy to come by, as many of the places coho and beaver enjoys, humans like as well.

As Laurie and I popped back onto the gravel road to continue our journey back to our cars, I asked Laurie if there was anything people could do to help coho and other salmon species.

“The biggest thing is just taking ownership,” said Laurie. Understanding that everyone can be either part of the problem or part of the solution is an important first step.

Next, get involved. Laurie suggested participating in local watershed counsels and estuary conservation groups.  A lot of times these groups will have opportunities to give back, including planting native vegetation.

Beyond this, “there are easy things you can do,” Laurie exclaimed—“don’t pour oil down the storm drain… think about what you are going to have in your yard…,” she suggested for example. 

Reducing pollution and creating natural filters that slow water, are both helpful to fish. High flows can scour out salmon nests, called redds, and carry silt that smothers salmon eggs.

Pollutants can sometimes accumulate in salmon in high concentrations, reducing their ability to fight off disease and sometimes killing them outright before they can spawn. Laurie mentioned a tire preservative that has increased pre-spawning mortality in salmon.

“Even in high seas, they [salmon] have detectible levels [of pollution],” said Laurie.

Sea Legs

Laurie and I continued to discuss the challenges facing salmon as we hiked the gravel road, a better option for salmon than pavement.

We passed by a newt that was exceptionally skinny. Could it be feeling the same strains as salmon feel with winter coming on? I wonder.

 I could see the gate ahead of us when I asked Laurie about what it was like to work on the high seas.

“Some days, I think, I can’t believe I am getting paid to be out here,” she smiled, “Other days, I think, they are not paying me enough.”

Laurie has been going to sea for the last 30 years with several weeks on the boat each time. That is a lot of hours clocked on a moving vessel. The seasickness and tight quarters get to you at times, but then there are moments of pure joy and wonder.

Sauté  

Soon we are back to our vehicles. We stood and chatted for a few more minutes about lamprey and the vastness of the ocean before we decided to part ways.

As I began to walk off, Laurie gave me one more piece of advice—“Cook them in a dry pan,” said Laurie, referring to the chanterelles, “medium heat.”

And with that, I migrated home. Fish, fungi, forest, and me—we are all connected.

Laurie Weitkamp is a Research Fisheries Biologist with the Northwest Fisheries Science Center since 1992.