emjelo2000, Author at Trail Scholar

Top Spring Hikes in Oregon for the Curious

Birds sing, bees buzz, and plants burst—life rebounds in the spring with such vigor it awakens the senses—as well as one’s seasonal allergies. It is worth it though! To me, watching the changes of spring through itchy, watery eyes is the bees-knees (oh, how we love those pollinators).

Spring is one of the best times to get outside and hike in Oregon. While warmer temperatures are inviting, longer daylight hours mean there is more time to hike. So, get out there and enjoy all the many hallmarks of spring. But don’t forget to read about them too.

1) Calloway Creek Trail

Enjoy a gentle ramble through Douglas-fir, Oregon white oak, and riparian forest in this short accessible loop. Calloway Creek is a favorite spring hike of mine—partly because of its proximity and partly because of the diversity of plants on the trail. There is so much to see in just a few miles, especially come spring.

At the beginning of March, or even February, some of the early spring arrivals show up—purple snow queen, oaks toothwort, and yellow stream violet add small splashes of color to the forest floor. Skinny stemmed Indian plum blooms—its white flowers dangle like earrings from the tips of droopy branches. And the long silky cream catkins of beaked hazelnut dance in the breeze.

By mid-April, giant while fawn lilies emerge and showstopping western Trillium are abundant on the trail, along with purple irises growing near the oak woodlands. Both salmonberry and Oregon grape bloom in technicolor—bright pink and yellow, respectively—while skinny striped trunks of the bitter cherry shoot our clusters of white popcorn blossoms with abandon. Some flowers are more difficult to spot. Play hunt-and-seek for dainty pink fairy slippers on the forest floor. Of course, these are just a few of the many wildflowers to see on this classic forest trail!

Location or Nearest Town: Corvallis, OR

Distance: 2.3 miles with about 200 feet of elevation gain

Difficulty: Easy

When to go: Year-round. April is best.

Why go? Shaded forests, wildflowers, and easy access.

Trail Curiosity: Phenology

Phenology is the study of the cyclical changes in living populations of organisms through the seasons. The phenomenon is something we are all familiar with—leaves turn color and fall in autumn and flowers blossom in spring, for instance. Annual migrations and hatchings are other examples.

These changes are predictable and are triggered by environmental cues, like temperature or humidity. Therefore, if a cue changes, the predictable behavior of the population will be affected too.

A change in the phenology, or timing of an event, is problematic—putting species ahead or behind schedule. For migratory animals, this could mean less food availability during a long journey. For plants, this could mean missing an important pollinator. As the climate changes, the study of phenology will help us understand the extent of all this decoupling.

You can get involved in the study of phenology by joining Oregon Season Trackers or other phenology programs in their area.

2) Trestle Creek Falls Loop

Hike under a canopy of Douglas-fir and western hemlock to two-tiered 65-foot Upper Trestle Creek Falls before looping down to a view of the less dramatic, log-choked Lower Trestle Creek Falls. The upper falls features an impressive rocky grotto that hikers access behind the falls to continue the loop. Moss, ferns, salal, and woodland sorrel blanket much of the forest. Leaning and down logs are also common. Look for western redcedar and madrone that spring up along the forest path. Rocky outcrops and peak-a-boo views of surrounding hillsides make the high interesting. Be ready for mud and some poison oak on the eastern part of the trail.

Spring is the best time to visit Trestle Creek Falls—waterfall flows are at their peak as the snow melts off the mountains and the forest is reinvigorated. Lush greenery really makes the forest feel magical and woodland wildflowers add whimsy to a spring day. Sitting at a low enough elevation, Trestle Creek does not generally have any snow remaining during the spring months.

Location or Nearest Town: Dorena, Oregon; upper trestle creek falls trailhead

Distance: 3.7 miles with about 1,200 feet elevation gain.

Difficulty: Moderate

When to go? Year-round with exception of winter storms. Spring is best.

Why go? Waterfalls and lush green forest.

Trail Curiosity: Streamflow

You may remember from elementary school that water is constantly recycled—the water cycle makes certain of that. Precipitation, evaporation, and condensation move water around from land to atmosphere to land again. Runoff, infiltration, subsurface flow, and groundwater flow move water above and below Earth’s surface. Water is cleaned and transported through these processes.

Streamflow is a measure of how much water is flowing in a stream or river at a time—often measured in cubic meters per second. In spring, streamflow values for rainfed streams in the Pacific Northwest often decline as rainfall declines across the state. However, in some parts of the region, the presence of mountains has resulted in a different story. Many of Oregon’s streams and rivers are snow-fed—meaning the water that feeds these streams comes primarily from melting snowpack that hangs around late into the summer. Snow-fed streams have more consistent streamflow—peaking in late spring, rather than winter. This is good news for anyone that needs water year-round, and all of us do.

However, there is concern about the future of the Pacific Northwest’s streamflow. Surface water, despite being extremely important, is extremely limited—streamflow accounts for only .006% of freshwater on the planet. As snowpack levels are threatened by a changing climate, peak streamflow timing is destined to change.

3) William L Finley National Wildlife Refuge

The variety of habitats in this 5,325-acre refuge makes it a fascinating place to visit. Upland prairie, oak savanna, wetlands, and mixed coniferous forests abound with different plant species and wildlife. Some of the habitats are rare, having been all but wiped off the map due to human development in the Willamette Valley. For example, wet prairie can only be seen in a few places on the planet—the refuge being one of them. Roosevelt Elk, black-tailed deer, bobcat, coyote, waterfowl, songbirds, raptors, and beaver all occupy the refuge at one time or another.

With the onset of spring, activity in the refuge intensifies—movement, color, and sounds. Listen for Northern Flicker’s frequent drumming as they search out a mate. Watch the skies for barn swallows dipping and diving with the air currents. Then, of course, are the wildflowers—filling the meadows with color and decorating the forest floor. Rare flowers like Kincaid’s lupine and Golden paintbrush bloom here in the grassland habitats, along with Nelson’s checkermallow and Bradshaw’s lomatium. Buzzing about the wildflowers is a whole host of invertebrate visitors, like bees and beetles—many of which are pollinators. Look for the California bumblebee, yellow-faced bumble bee, Silvery Blue butterfly, Western Tiger Swallowtail, and Common Wood Nymph in the springtime fray.

Location or Nearest Town: South of Corvallis, OR

Distance: Varies; 8.4 for a mega loop; 455 feet elevation gain.

Difficulty: Moderate

When to go: May for wildflowers and pollinators. The full loop is open from April 1 to October 31^st.

Why go? Wildlife viewing; unique habitats; wildflowers and their visitors.

Trail Curiosity: Pollinators

Seed plant reproduction starts with pollen. Unpleasant in the way it makes eyes itch and/or your nose run, the dispersal of pollen is an absolute must when it comes to plant reproduction. In flowering plants, male reproductive organs, known as stamen, produce pollen at their tips—the anther. From here the pollen is transported—by wind, water, insects, etc.—until it reaches the flower of a plant of the same species and is captured by the female reproductive organ, known as a pistil, on a structure called the stigma. Pollen’s movement from anther to stigma is known as pollination. Achoo!

Not surprisingly, as seed plant reproduction gets going, spring brings on the thrum and hum of pollinators—ready for a feast! Native pollinators in Oregon include bumblebees, leaf-cutting and mason bees, wasps, beetles, butterflies, moths, hummingbirds, and bats. Oregon Bee Atlas has counted 650 different species of bees in Oregon! That is a lot of pollinators, rubbing elbows with the flowers.

Unfortunately, many pollinator populations are declining, and some are at risk of extinction. Endangered Fender’s blue butterfly with its fuzzy purple-blue wings is one such species. An obligate to Kincaid’s lupine—adults must lay their eggs on the underside of their leaves—Fender’s blue occurs in scattered populations across its limited range in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Habitat loss and degradation is the main threat to the species. Look for Fender’s Blue at Finley in late May when they emerge as adults.

4) Tom McCall Point

Balsamroot on the Tom McCall Point trail.

Nothing harkens to the wildflower season better than a hike on Tom McCall Point trail. As early as February, drooping grass widows and lacy-leaved desert parsleys emerge in the eastern Columbia River Gorge. By late April and into May, these give way to fields of golden balsamroot and purple lupine with a smattering of red paintbrush. Other less conspicuous delights include beautiful white-stem frasera, bicolored cluster lily, and popcorn flower. Seed pods of early blooming Columbia desert parsley are also common.

The trail system here takes you through channeled scablands left behind from glacial floods that scoured the area toward the end of the last ice age—about 18,000 to 15,000 years ago. Rocky outcrops and small ponds remain from the tumultuous period.

Escape the lingering clouds and rain in exchange for blue skies by heading east. Take in views of the Columbia River and its environs. A hike to Tom McCall point offers views of Mt. Adams to the east and Mr. Hood to the west.

Location or Nearest Town: Mosier, OR

Distance: 3.4 miles; approximately 1070 elevation gain

Difficulty: Moderate

When to go: February to May. Peak blooms are usually in late April/May

Why go?: Interesting geology, wildflowers, and blue skies

Trail Curiosity: Desert Blooms Adaptations

Wide-open spaces bring a bounty of spring color to Oregon’s dry sagebrush steep and grassland habitats. There is something alluring about these landscapes at this time of year. Everything is steeped in golden sunlight—a soft desert blush. Balsamroot blooms—rays of sun themselves—grow in stretches across the high plateaus of Eastern Oregon.

Desert flowers are not only beautiful, but they possess an inventive ruggedness that comes from spending all one’s days in such a harsh environment. High winds and low moisture are common challenges, but desert plants are well adapted to their home and can not only survive but thrive.

Arrowleaf balsamroot is a favorite desert wildflower for many. Showy and profuse with a bright yellow flowerhead, it attracts countless visitors to trails in April or May when the bloom reaches its peak. With a long taproot, it anchors to the ground, stabilizing the earth and holding the plant in often blustering winds. Above ground, balsamroot is about 2 feet tall, but below ground, it may grow to 3 or more feet long—reaching for water not available at the surface. Their long, heart-shaped leaves are sage green with thick hairs that act as a windbreaker, preventing desiccation.

5) Beazell Memorial Forest

Hike along rushing Plunkett Creek, past dozens of forest wildflowers before traversing up a slope to a grassy bald hillside with views of Marys Peak in the distance. Flowers color the bald and butterflies flutter in all directions in, looking for a sweet drink. Continue down the trail past second-growth Douglas-fir—a few older wolf trees with arms that reach out in all directions stand at attention as you begin your descent.

In early spring, the forest floor is lush and green and the water in the creek swells. As you hike past the mossy bigleaf maple just beginning to leaf out, make sure to look down—rough-skinned newts crawl along the path in droves in early spring. These toxic, yet amiable creatures migrate to breeding ponds in mass once a year. If you are lucky

Location or Nearest Town: Beazell Memorial Forest County Park; Kings Valley, OR

Distance: 4 miles; about 885 elevation gain.

Difficulty: Easy /Moderate

When to go: April to May

Why go? Shaded riparian forest, upland prairie, wildflowers, gorgeous stream, and Newts (if you get the timing right!)

Trail Curiosity: Newt Spring Migration and Breeding

With the onset of spring in the western valleys of Oregon, rough-skinned newts (Taricha granulosa) are on the move. Breeding season for these charismatic creatures is usually March to May for Oregon’s bottomlands. During this time, Newts will migrate—sometimes in droves—to breeding ponds. Males are the first to arrive, followed by a smaller number of females.

Rough-skinned Newts engage in a series of mating rituals underwater, including pre and post insemination “cuddling”—where the male grips the female from the back—a position known as amplexus. Competition between males vying for female attention can result in the formation of a mating ball—where several males lock with one or two females.

Watch for newts along the forest trail and in slow-moving water in spring to get in on the action.

Hike with a Marine Ecologist

Ocean breakers offshore at South Beach State Park

There is something mythical about whales. Stories of whales show up repeatedly in folklore—represented as otherworldly and wise. Whales live in a different realm— mammals like us, whales breathe air, but somehow make a living in the Ocean. Their lives are cloaked in mystery—behaving in ways we are only beginning to understand.

One person who is trying to unlock their secrets is Leigh Torres, principal investigator of The Geospatial Ecology of Marine Megafauna Laboratory at OSU’s Marine Mammal Institute. So, on an exceptionally warm day in winter, we met up at South Beach State Park to hike and talk whales.

Her dog, Pepper, in tow, we headed out along the path that follows the south jetty out to the Pacific. The sky was bright blue overhead. Hordes of people were out enjoying the sunshine.

The Hike

Trailhead: Yaquina Bay South Jetty Trailhead.
Distance: Approximately 1 mile for beach walk. Additional options available.
Elevation: Minimal
Details: Plenty of paved parking at trailhead. No fee for parking. Pit toilet at trailhead. Follow a gravel trail that parallels the jetty over the sandy dunes to get to the beach.

Finding a Passion

As we walked, I asked Leigh to tell me a bit about her background.

“I grew up loving animals,” Leigh responded, “especially big animals.” Admittedly a common interest of many kids.

That, coupled with a childhood growing up in Miami connected to the ocean, and her love for science, the stage was set.

So, though Leigh began her studies at American University as a soccer player and photography major, it didn’t take long for her path to take a bit of a U-turn. Through a study abroad in Australia working with marine mammals, she found her passion for marine research. “I want to do that,” she recalled thinking at the time.

Leigh ended up double-majoring in photography and environmental science before pursuing advanced degrees at Duke University. There, she began her work with marine mammals studying dolphin behavior and foraging.

Now she is a marine ecologist at OSU studying the spatial and behavioral ecology of marine megafauna—how they behave, where they go, etc.

As we walked up next to the dark rocks of the south jetty, Leigh pointed out a couple of heavy orange-billed rhinoceros auklets swimming in the navigation channel. We could also see the dark rounded heads of sea lions bobbing above the water.

“Well, there is a couple of marine mammals right there!” she exclaimed.

Looking out into the navigation channel as we headed to the beach.

Whale Habitat

Continuing over the foredune and onto the ocean beach, the sights, and sounds of breaking waves immediately captivate the senses. Here, Leigh and I got down to the business of talking whales—specifically gray whales.

“We are actually looking at one of their main habitats,” Leigh began as she pointed out toward the breakers. The Newport coastline is a major feeding ground for a group of resident whales that stop here to feed during the summer and fall months, rather than migrating further north to the arctic.

“They feed close to shore,” said Leigh, “They feed on really shallow reefs often covered in kelp.” These areas are highly productive habitats—hosting many species that whales need to survive. In particular, mysid—shrimp-like zooplankton—swarm these areas, providing a staple food source for gray whales to dine on.

Squinting out toward the white-capped waves—I tried to imagine what lay below the surface, an entire rocky ecosystem with thick green kelp beds, fish, invertebrates, urchins, starfish, and, of course, whales. All of which depend on each other to maintain a healthy system.

Walking down off the foredune onto the beach.

Feeding

How gray whales feed is something else entirely!

As we walked along Leigh told me how gray whales use a variety of foraging tactics to feed, including “head standing”, “sucking benthos”, and something called “bubble blast.”

What? Bubble blast? I asked Leigh how this works.

She explained that the whales will blast bubbles through their blowhole underwater to create a cloud of bubbles a couple of meters wide. They will then chomp their jaws near the blast to feed.

“Bubble blast is a mystery,” Leigh proclaimed. No one knows why they do it. Leigh speculated that it could be related to buoyancy. Whatever the reason, these foraging strategies seem to be culturally shared.

Leigh laughed as she recalled some bubble blast footage her lab caught on tape of an older, 30-year-old male whale named, Peak, feeding with a younger 7-year-old male, Pacman on a reef. Peak bubble blasted and Pacman followed suit. Just two peas in a whale pod.

According to Leigh, this feeding time is vital, especially for females. “They are capital breeders,” she explained. This means that the food they consume during five to six months at their feeding grounds needs to sustain them for the remainder of the year, as they engage in costly activities, like breeding and migrating.

Migration

Speaking of migrating—after feeding for several months, gray whales migrate south for the winter—most traveling 5,000-6,000 miles to Baja California.

Toward the end of the feeding season, whales start to feed less and socialize more. Leigh has observed courting actives in the whales she studies. Males and females will surface synchronously together. Males will jockey for position next to a female. “Sometimes you see some penis’ flying in the air.” Ah, the life of a whale researcher.

“They all go to Baja,” Leigh remarked. Mating often occurs in route, but gestation lasts about 12-14 months—the end of the following year’s migration.

Once in the warm waters of Baja, the whales engage in social behaviors, and the pregnant females, if they haven’t already, give birth to a single calf. Mothers nurse their calves in the tropical waters until they build up enough blubber reserves to survive colder waters to the north.

Then, in the spring, gray whales make a return trip north—again traveling 5,000-6,000 miles to feeding grounds, usually in the Arctic or sub-Arctic regions of Alaska.

This costly migration occurs over and over throughout the long lives of these whales. Though we don’t know exactly how old gray whales get, it is probably something like 60-80 years, according to Leigh. That is a lot of migration.

Subgroup

As we migrated along the beach—contemplating the immensity of a 6,000-mile journey—Leigh clued me into the whales she studies in Oregon.

“These whales don’t make a full migration,” she explained. “They are what is called a subgroup.” More specifically, the Pacific Coast Feeding Group (PCFG). There are about 250 members of this group that arrive at Oregon’s rocky shores in about June and stick around until around October—feeding along the kelp beds that grow here.

It is these gray whales that Leigh watches bubble blast and suck benthos. It is also these whales that she knows by name and personality.

One of the objectives of her lab is to understand how this subgroup of whales is different from whales that make the full migration. For example, one of the graduate students in her lab looked at the caloric content of prey found in Oregon versus the arctic. Eventually finding them to be equivalent or higher.

“We are still piece-by-piece trying to solve the mystery of the PCFGs,” said Leigh. Why do they stop? What is their unique culture? Their challenges? This is the crux of Leigh and her team’s research.

A couple of other subgroups exists. For example, a group of about twelve whales stops in Puget Sound in March to feed off ghost shrimp. Another larger endangered population of gray whales—the western gray whale population—migrates all the way to Russia.

Sunlight reflects off the water on the beach.

Whale Research

We walked along the wet, compacted sand, moving south along the coastline at an easy pace. Pepper chased ahead following her joy and the surf.

“We study their behavior and body conditions,” Leigh explained, keeping a close eye on Pepper as she talked.

Studying whales is not an easy undertaking. Leigh’s lab uses different methods and technologies to help gather the data they need to better understand how the gray whales that reside on the Oregon Coast are doing.

“When we are with the whales, the first thing we do is get out the cameras and do photo ID,” explained Leigh. “Everything we do is linked to an individual whale.”

Next, the drones come out. Drones allow Leigh and her team to really see what they are doing. Body condition and behavior are two essential measurements taken from drone footage.

A Gold Mine

Then there is the poop!

“We are looking for poop the entire time,” Leigh stated with a grin.

According to Leigh, capturing whale poop is not too difficult—you just need a lot of patience and a “really good boat driver.” Whales typically poop during their last fluke-out dive—called the terminal dive. After three or four blows in a row, the whale takes a final breath, dives, and out comes the poop (well, some of the time).

As soon as someone spots a reddish-brown plume in the water, they yell “poop!” And the team jumps into action. Using mesh nets, they scoop up as much poop as possible for testing. You usually only have about 30 seconds before it sinks into the abyss. Whale poops can be as large as 4 by 4 meters. Yep, I asked (your whalecome).

You might be asking yourself, why in the world would anyone want to collect whale poop?

“Poop from whales is a biological gold mine,” explained Leigh. It can be used to determine a lot about the whale’s health and biology. Plus, it is a non-invasive method!

“We look at the hormones, what it is eating, and the microbiome of the animal,” Leigh went on. “We are looking at microplastic loads,” she also specified. Truly, a gold mine.

Unique Personalities or Discoveries

We continued along the flat glistening sand, sun on our backs. I asked Leigh how long she has been studying Oregon’s subgroup of whales.

“Six years now,” Leigh replied. She went on, “My hope is to continue for a long time. “

“These are long-lived animals,” Leigh explained. “To really understand their ecology, we need long-term studies.”

Leigh and her team hope to better understand what affects their reproduction and survival.

So far, the lab has established “baseline knowledge.” Overall, it seems that how much gray whales respond to stressors varies greatly from whale-to-whale, year-to-year, and even day-to-day within an individual whale. Lactating whales, for example, will be generally very skinny. Stress hormones increase following a stressful event, like a propellor strike.

The goal now is to figure out what the drivers are—or, in other words, what is at the heart of the variation in responses observed in whales?

Ripples in the sand at South Beach State Park

Hard-knock Life

Eventually, Leigh and I reached a small creek crossing—not wanting to get our feet wet, we turned around and headed north. It was nearly lunchtime, so getting back to our feeding grounds, I mean er, cars, made sense.

As we headed back, Leigh and I talked about the changes she is seeing in Oregon’s resident whales and what she sees as the potential drivers of these changes.

“The number of whales is lowering,” Leigh told me. Though she doesn’t know what exactly is happening to the whales, she knows they are not coming back. “There has been an unusual mortality event,” Leigh went on, “lots of emaciated whales on the coast lately.”

According to Leigh, kelp is also on the decline along the coast probably due to marine heatwaves and increases in urchins. This is a significant problem as gray whales feed a lot in these kelp beds.

She recalled the warm blob event of 2014 to 2016 and its impact on the marine system. “It changed the oceanography,” she explained, and both the kelp and whales were impacted. Prey availability reduction was measured, as well as a decline in the whales’ body conditions.

Along the same vein, urchin populations have increased as their predators, like sea otters and sunflower sea stars, have become less abundant. Because urchins eat kelp, a larger urchin population is bad news for kelp.

Entangled in Strikes

Then there are the vessel strikes and the fisheries entanglements.

“One particular project I am interested in is noise pollution,” Leigh mentioned early on in our hike together.

Oceans are becoming noisy places. “90% of shipping is overseas,” according to Leigh. That means a lot of fast and loud ships that whales, and other marine life, must contend with. Leigh wants to understand how whales respond to all the noise.

To study the phenomenon, Leigh and her research team place hydrophones in two locations during the summer—one near the South Jetty where we were walking and another, near the much quieter, Otter Rock Marine Reserve. The goal is to monitor both sites for noise and to track the gray whales’ responses.

Listening is an important part of whale behavior. “The ocean is very dark,” Leigh explained, “you can’t see very far for navigation.” Whale communication relies on sound. Finding food, mating, and avoiding predators are all affected by a noise-filled ocean.

Leigh told me about a pilot project where her team tagged whales using suction cups. Each tag had a camera and accelerometer to track the activity of the whale over about a 24-hour period.

During one of these tagging events, they were able to observe one of the whales, Peak, move through the navigation channel. What they found was compelling.

Peak dropped from about 2 meters below the surface to 5 meters during the traverse. He also took fewer breathes during his crossing.

It is easy to speculate regarding his behavior—Was Peak experiencing “fear?” Exercising caution? More research will need to be done.

How to Save Whales

So, what can we do?

As Leigh and I neared our exit from the beach, I asked her that very question.

“First, simple things that reduce the role of climate change,” was her initial response. “Drive less, fly less, eat less meat.”

For people that recreate in the ocean, her recommendation was more direct—“pick up your fishing gear” and “slow down.”

Leaving crab pots or other fishing gear in the water for extended periods of time can increase the likelihood that whales become entangled.

Driving too fast and not watching for whales in areas that they occupy results in more strikes. “A lot of whales have propeller strikes.”

Finally, there are the less tangible things we can do. We can be informed about marine life and the changes occurring in our oceans.

“Educate, connect, and monitor our environment”—that is what Leigh and her team are working tirelessly to achieve.

If we can get on board and show similar interest in the ocean—perhaps through our own connections to marine life—then we are getting somewhere. After all, human activity and gray whales overlap.

Whether you are fishing on a reef or purchasing something on Amazon, you are party to a human-whale interaction.

A boar returning from the Ocean through the navigation channel.

Whale Connections

Fortunately, Leigh and her research team have made connecting with Oregon’s whales easier than ever. They developed a website (individuwhale.com) where anyone can learn about the Pacific Coast Feeding Group on an intimate level.

“We profiled eight whales,” Leigh explained, “Talk about their lives and show them as individuals.”

By visiting the site, you can learn about each whales’ behaviors and habits—”are they homebodies or roamers?”—for example. Information about research methods and whale threats is also discussed on the site.

The site shows you how to use markings to distinguish between individual whales. You can even play a fun game to test your knowledge. And the best part—you can then use what you learned to identify whales in the wild.

Finding Whales

Let’s go wild—wild about whales! Where can we find these magnificent creatures?

Well, when it comes to the Oregon Coast, it depends on who and what you want to see.

Leigh told me that she has been doing helicopter surveys four times a month with the coast guard since 2019—with flights out of North Bend, Newport, and Warrenton. The main goal of the survey is to determine the distribution of whales over time and space in order to better manage entanglement risk.

With this data, however, Leigh was also able to tell me a bit about where and when recreators might want to look for whales.

The migrating gray whales come through in February and March and November and December, making these months a great time to look for whales off Oregon’s rocky shores.

However, Oregon’s part-time resident whales are around all summer—from June to October, with August being the peak month to see them. For the best views of these whales, head to Depoe Bay or Yaquina Head, according to Leigh.

But gray whales aren’t the only cetaceans that visit Oregon. Harbor porpoise is a year-round resident, though hard to see unless the water is exceptionally calm. Humpbacks and blue whales hang out for the summer, though farther offshore, with blue whales the closer of the pair. For humpbacks, July is a peak month, but for blue whales, it is closer to September or October. Then, Fin whales arrive in the winter.

Heading Home

Leigh and I continued to chat as we walked over the sandy dunes that separated us from the parking lot.

Though we didn’t see one whale during our hike together, spending time with Leigh was like getting a peek behind the curtain. Though the mystery of whales is not resolved, we are closer than we have ever been to understanding these sentinels of the sea. And with drones, poop, and Leigh and her team, we will only get closer. And that is something to get whaley excited about.

Leigh Torres in the principal investigator of The Geospatial Ecology of Marine Megafauna Laboratory at OSU’s Marine Mammal Insti

Curious Hiker: John Dellenback Trail

Open dunescape on John Dellenback trail.

Overview

Hike through a unique dunescape, sculpted by the wind, on your way to the Pacific. The Oregon Coast Dunes National Recreation area is a place like no other—with a feeling of vastness, like the ocean itself. The John Dellenback trail is a favorite for hikers, as no motor vehicles are allowed in the vicinity. Forests, sand, and sea—enjoy the beauty and solitude this trail has to offer.

Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 5 miles
Terrane: 300 feet elevation gain
Open: Anytime.
Trailhead: John Dellenback Dunes Trailhead (43.584311, -124.185018)
Contact: Siuslaw National Forest Service. Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area Visitor Center.

Highlights

Unique dune landscape; beach access; solitude/no vehicles; wildlife tracking.

Need to Know

Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent required at the trailhead. There is plenty of parking, and vault toilets available. No bikes are allowed on the trail. March 15-September 15 is western snowy plover nesting season. Trail users must remain on the trail and walk close to the water’s edge while on the beach during nesting season. No dogs are allowed during this time as well.

Hike Description

Forest Walk

A placard marks the start of the hike at the far north corner of the parking lot. From here, follow the trail across sandy-bottomed Eel creek on a wooden planked bridge and enter a forest of Shore pine (Pinus contorta) and Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii).

Once an open sand dune itself, the forest is now thick with trees and shrubs that reach overhead. Showy, pink-flowered Pacific rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum), thicket-forming salal (Gaulthoria shallon), and edible evergreen huckleberries (Vaccinium ovatum) proliferate here, as well as red-barked Columbia manzanita (Arctostaphylos columbiana).

Ignore a turn-off to the left, following a small wooden trail marker right. Pass a wooden bench that looks out on a small pond. Cross the campground road and re-enter the forest. A few lone madrones twist upwards amongst the conifers—red bark ablaze.

Manzanita and madrone grow along the forest trail.

Dunes

Shortly, the path leaves the forest, spilling out onto open dunes. Mouth agape, begin heading west toward the ocean following a set of spaced-out wooden trail markers with a blue stripe near the top.

Here is where the fun begins! You can follow the marked route exactly or choose your own path through this surreal landscape. Sand shifts underfoot as you walk. Human and animal prints trail across the ground, impressions of the past.

To the left of the markers, a large oblique dune parallels the path. Oblique dunes are the largest dune type and can reach heights of 180 feet and lengths of up to a mile. Formed by the northwest winds of the summer and southwest winds of winter, these massive piles of sand are slanted and constantly shifting. Climb up the dune’s steep rippled side for a better view of the expansive sandscape.

Continuing west, notice a tree island to the left of the large dune and a low vegetated area to the right. Tree islands are remnants of past coastal forest that has since been buried beneath the sand.

Tree island to the left of the oblique dune.

Eventually, the sandy undulations head downhill toward a tree line in the distance. Mounds of sand with dune grasses—called hummocks—appear. Small water-filled depressions hide between the mounds, likely the result of a rising water table. Look for small plants like seashore lupine, beach strawberry, and dune tansy growing in the sand.

Deflation Plain

Upon reaching a forest of shore pine, the trail takes a sharp turn to the right following the edge of the woods. Songbirds flit from branch to branch in this transition zone.

Again, the trail turns sharply, this time taking a left and diving into the forested deflation plain—a low wind stripped area full of wet sand and thick with vegetation. The area is swampy enough that a boardwalk covers a portion of the trail but be prepared to get your feet wet. Large puddles block the path frequently during the wet season.

Moss and lichen inhabit the sandy environment, and red bearberry or kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) grow in low dense patches—redberries stand out brightly against the narrow evergreen leaves. Shore pine trees crowd overhead, along with mossy Oregon myrtle trees in the swampy forest. Evergreen huckleberry, salal, and rhododendron reoccur here as well.

Foredune to Beach

Eventually, the trail opens to a grassy foredune with occasional shrubs. Much of the grass that makes up the foredune is European marram grass (Ammophila arenaria)—brought to the coast intentionally to stabilize the otherwise dynamic environment. Fast-growing European marram grass has spread through much of Oregon’s central and south coast via a network of roots and rhizomes.

Dropdown off the grassy mounds of sand near a bright yellow sign marked 121—placed there for emergency responders, but also a handy way to remember the route back. Walk the beach for a while or simply enjoy the sound and sights of the rolling ocean waves before returning the way you came.

Optional:

After crossing the dunes on the way back, look for a small sandy trail that leads off to the right where you enter the forest. Follow this trail to hike the remainder of a small loop that will take you back to your car.

Curious Hiker: Golden and Silver Falls Hike

Overview

Explore a 3.0-mile forested trail system to two impressive waterfalls with gushing flows in winter and spring. These falls are among the largest and most powerful in the Coast Range of Oregon.

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Distance: 3.0 miles
Terrane: 570 feet elevation gain
Open: All year. Best in winter and early spring
Trailhead: Golden and Silver Falls State Natural Area (43.482586596109265, -123.93316810413619)
Contact: Oregon State Parks

Highlights

Powerful waterfalls; old-growth forest; interesting geology.

Need to Know

Roads to the trailhead are passable but narrow at times. There is no parking pass required at the trailhead. There is a good amount of parking. Vault toilet available at the trailhead. The picnic area along the creek is inviting.

Hike Description

Silver Falls

Three different trails lead to unique views of Golden and Silver Falls.

Starting at the parking lot, first, take a trail to the left to get your first glimpse of Silver Falls—plunging 223-feet down a bulbous sandstone rock face.

The trail follows an old roadbed, paralleling wood-choked Silver Creek at the forest edge. As you near the falls, a thick mist hangs in the air—soaking anyone who lingers—and the trail turns to mud during winter months. In contrast, the waterfall dries up to trickle during dry summer months.

Silver Falls at the end of the first trail

Golden Falls

Next, cross the bridge over Silver Creek and take the trail leading right to the base of Golden Falls. Hike through a grove of ancient Oregon myrtle trees (Umbellularia californica) with spicy-pungent leaves and ridged trunks covered in moss .3 miles along Glen Creek before reaching views of a massive horsetail style falls.

Dropping through a narrow slot canyon at the stop, water rushes 254-feet down with impressive force. Watch it tumble over and around large boulders and rocks as it splashes its way down to your feet.

Golden Falls at the end of the second trail

Trail of Two Falls

To reach the last, and longest stretch of trail, head back to the junction after the bridge and head left.

Follow a trail up through old-growth Douglas-fir and western redcedar trees as you rise above the banks of Silver Creek. The trees are massive with deeply furloughed bark. Climb over a large down log with notches cut in for easy climbing.

Younger Oregon myrtle trees and bigleaf maple grow also along the trail, along with an understory of sword fern, evergreen huckleberry, and wood sorrel. Look for salmonberry set in prickly patches in the floodplain of the stream.

Soon you will reach the base and thundering roar of Silver Falls. Soak in the view and get soaked in the process—it’s worth it.

At Silver Falls, the trail switches back to the right and continues up passing massive moss-covered rocks and sandstone cliffs. A large boulder lays in the center of the trail at one point. Western Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum aleuticum) with its dark delicate stem and whorl of leaflets grows abundantly on this section of trail.

The trail traces the rockface up to the top of Golden Falls for a unique birds-eye view of the falls and surrounding terrain. Wildflowers bloom here. Look for Baby Blue-eyes (Nemophila menziesii) in late winter. A dead tree hangs off the side of the cliff ominously. Water drips off the rock overhead and the falls roars. Views down the falls and into the canyon are vertigo-inducing and spectacular.

Having fully explored the steep-walled canyons of Golden and Silver Falls State Natural Area, retrace your steps to return.

Mini-Field Guide

Field Guide to Oregon’s Coastal Conifers

*This post contains affiliate links. Click here to read my disclosures.*

Curious about coastal conifers? Want to tell them apart? You are in the right place! This short guide will tell you all you need to know about the coniferous trees that inhabit Oregon’s Coast Range ecoregion. Learn some fun and interesting facts about each species, as well as key identification characteristics that will help you to tell them apart.

**Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)**

The most common tree in Oregon is the Douglas-fir. A commercially valuable tree, it has been planted in much of the coastal mountains, where it naturally grows, reaching heights of over 250 feet. Douglas-fir is an early successional species, established on bare mineral soil following a fire. Much of the old-growth that remains in Oregon today resulted from large fires 400 to 600 years ago. When Douglas-fir fall, they open the canopy for species, like the western hemlock to fill in the gaps.

Douglas-fir has reddish-brown bark with deep furrows, sometimes referred to as “bacon bark” for those inclined toward food analogies. However, these furrows are not as pronounced in younger trees and coloration does seem to vary. Branches swoop upwards, capturing the light. Needles are soft and arrange themselves in even whorls on each pliable branch. Look for shiny red-pointed buds at the tips of the growing branchlets. Not a true-fir, Douglas-fir cones often fall to the forest floor, a favorite food for Douglas squirrels. Douglas-fir cones are unmistakable, with three-pronged bracts that stick out from under each scale.

Western Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla)

Western hemlock is a slow-growing tree, often playing second fiddle to other conifers surrounding it. This secondary successional species is adapted to the lower light conditions of the understory. When a tree falls in the forest, the western hemlock knows—growing opportunistically in gaps caused by windfall. Western hemlock trees often start their lives on a nurse log or small snags, taking advantage of the water and protection that the high ground offers.

Western hemlock has a gently drooping top that distinguishes it among look-alike conifers. Its large sweeping branches splay out casting shadows and scattering light. The blunt needles of western hemlock are soft and variable in length but average less than half an inch. The arrangement of the needles is messy—kind of like a toddler’s hair just out of bed. Shorter needles stick out from the branch, while the slightly longer, “tamer,” needles lay flat. The bark of the Western hemlock is thin and gray with shallow ridges. Western hemlock produces copious amounts of small 1–3-inch brown cones, often seen scattered on the ground or growing up in its branches.

**Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis)**

Sitka spruce is the largest spruce species on the planet. With a diameter that can grow as large as 16 feet at its base, Sitka spruce is an impressive behemoth to behold, especially in an old-growth forest setting. Only found in a narrow band along the Oregon Coast, Sitka spruce do well throughout the fog belt and in the floodplains of rivers and streams. Despite their limited range, Sitka spruce can tolerate a lot of different coastal landscapes from salty dune islands and sandy beaches to rocky headlands and tidal swamps.

Sitka Spruce trees have wide cylindrical trunks with grey-brown bark that looks like paint chipping of an old wall. Its light-colored cones have papery-thin scales with jagged edges—often seen strewn along the trail in bunches. Sitka spruce can be easy to tell apart from other coastal forest dwellers by their sharply pointed needles that stick out on short pedestals on each twig in a bottle-brush arrangement. If you grab a branch in your palm it will hurt. Just remember, “Sitka will Stick-ya.”

**Western redcedar (Thuja plicata)**

Western redcedar with its sweeping J-shaped branches of scale-like leaves and shredded red bark is one of the most beautiful species in the Oregon coastal forests. It is also one of the most useful—indigenous peoples throughout the Pacific Northwest used the rot-resistant wood for lodges, canoes, utensils, among other things. The bark was used for basketry and to make ropes, nets, and even clothing.

Stumps and snags of ancient western redcedar punctuate the forest, withstanding the test of time. Scattered amongst more dominant Douglas-fir trees or huddled together in small groves, western redcedar is a shade-tolerant species. Western redcedar grows best in moist areas in the coastal fog belt.

To identify western redcedar, look for a thinly shredded bark that runs in vertical strips. Rub your hand down the bark and it won’t splinter. Its scale-like leaves are also unusual among other conifers in the region. The leaves are folded and lie flat against the tree’s branchlets—a white bloom in the shape of butterflies line the underside in organized rows. Tiny rose-shaped cones cluster in the branches and at times can be found scattered in the forest duff.

Shore Pine (Pinus contorta)

Being successful on the rugged coast can be a difficult proposition. Shore pines are adapted to that challenge by taking on the shape and form of the wind. With twisted stems and matted branches, shore pines typically only grow 65 feet tall, some much shorter. Shore pines are the same species as the erect stemmed lodgepole pine that grow to 130 feet tall throughout the west at mid to high elevations.

Some of the shore pines on Oregon’s coast are planted—put in place along with invasive dune grasses and scotch broom to stabilize a naturally shifting dune landscape. Naturally, shore pines are highly adaptable growing in sandy, boggy, and rocky environments.

The easiest way to identify a shore pine is to look at its dark green needles—arranged in twisted pairs, they cluster at the tips of each branch. Larger wooden female cones, often curved, attach to the branches, while male pollen cones are smaller, reddish-green, and cluster at the tips. The bark of shore pine is dark, rough, and scaly.

Coast Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens)

The tallest species of conifer in on the west coast—commonly reaching heights of 300 plus feet—the coast redwood is hard to miss when you encounter it. Their great height allows them to capture fog droplets on their slender needles in the fog zone where they exclusively reside. Lichen, moss, ferns, and even trees grow in soil that forms high above the earth. Then critters join the mix—creating unique arboreal ecosystems. Redwoods are also rare in Oregon—existing in only a few protected areas along the south coast.

Besides their height, coast redwoods can be distinguished by their massive trunks up to 23 feet in diameter. Thick reddish furrowed bark runs up the great length of the trunk and their roots often buttress near the ground. The coast redwood has a conical crown with branches that droop slightly. Ancient redwoods have complex crowns with many trunks. The 1-inch needles of the coast redwood lay flat, flanking each branchlet. Bright green above with a white bloom below, the needles shorten as they draw near the main branch—tapering like a bird feather. On cone-bearing branches, the taper is more pronounced and the needles are sharper. The cones of a redwood tree are small and round with deep wrinkles.

Resources

Want to learn more about Oregon’s trees? Check out the books below.

Curious Hiker: McDowell Creek Falls Loop

Overview

A short ramble through a mixed conifer-broad leaf forest takes you past two waterfalls that roar to life during the winter and early spring. The varied terrain and near-constant rush of water stimulate the senses as you walk. Enjoy the mist from the falls on a hot day or take refuge in the forest in the case of rain. McDowell Creek is a popular all-season hike best visited on a weekday.

Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 1.6 miles
Terrane: 300 feet elevation gain
Open: All year. Best in winter and spring for high flows.
Trailhead: Royal Terrace Falls Trailhead at McDowell County Park (44.464657, -122.680844)
Contact: Linn County Parks and Recreation Department

Highlights

Multiple waterfalls; varied terrain; forest setting; easy access; spring wildflowers; fun hike for kids.

Need to Know

Roads to the trailhead are paved. There is plenty of parking available at the trailhead and no passes are required to park. A restroom and picnic areas are accessible at the trailhead. Dogs allowed on leash.

Hike Description

Staircase

From the parking lot look for a bridge that crosses over rushing Fall Creek. A sign with a map marks the entrance.

Hike up the dirt trail through a forest of bigleaf maple, Douglas-fir, and western hemlock—wrapped in bright green moss that drips with moisture in the rainy season. Sword fern and salmonberry grow below the open canopy.

The muddy trail continues up past a junction leading left to the base of Royal Terrace Falls on a wooden bridge. Stay right, hiking up steep stone steps with sidelong views of water rushing down Fall Creek, including a nice view of Royal Terrace Falls in profile.

At the top of the falls, cross the creek on a wooden footbridge. Western redcedar trees congregate along the creek banks, inviting one to linger. A small user trail can be explored off to the left before making your crossing.

Western red cedar trees to the right of Fall Creek before the bridge

Follow me into the Forest

Duck below the long branch of a western redcedar, as you continue uphill. Look for Oregon grape, thimbleberry, and red huckleberry, in addition to sword fern and salal, amongst the Douglas-fir and hemlock trees. Western redcedar are more commonly seen through this section of the trail, and young grand fir with their flat stiff branches may be spotted in the understory.

Western redcedar branch hanging over the trail

At an unmarked junction, follow the trail to the right. The grade eases a bit as you near the high point of the hike. Views toward the hills and valley in the distance are limited by the Douglas-firs and bigleaf maples growing along the trail.

A screen of Douglas-fir and bigleaf maple trees

Soon you will reach a road crossing and enter a forest that’s undergrowth has been overtaken by a thicket of blackberry. Both the invasive Armenian blackberry and native trailing blackberry grow here—the invasive species, as thick stalks that shoot upwards; the native, as vines that hug the ground creating a network of tripping hazards for anyone that dares walk through the prickly woods.

Majestic Falls

The trail crosses another road next to a parking lot before dropping down to aptly named Majestic falls—plunging 39 feet vertically into a pool below. A red-barked pacific yew angles awkwardly overhead before you arrive at a large viewing platform.

From here, take some time to appreciate the falls—considered the most scenic in the park by many. The rocks here are 22.8-million-year-old coarse-grained anorthositic diabase—a type of volcanic rock, similar to basalt, but that cooled underground rather than at the surface.

Majestic Falls from the viewing platform

McDowell Creek

Ignoring a set of stairs that lead uphill to the left, follow a series of wooden stairs and platforms dropping to the right. Be sure to stop at additional viewpoints along the way, as you make your way to a bridged crossing of McDowell Creek.

Follow the trail downhill passing torrents of water—McDowell creek on your left. Pass by 14-foot Crystal Falls—a small plunging punchbowl partly hidden by streamside vegetation.

Look for edible redwood sorrel and shiny, heart-shaped leaves of false-lily-of the-valley, growing in clusters on the forest floor. Pacific Bleeding heart and Trillium bloom in the spring.

Further down, a small rock slide waterfall framed by a western red cedar and hemlock glides over bare bedrock toward a sediment-filled pool.

Unnamed rock slide falls along the trail

In less than a quarter-mile, cross the road again before reaching a wooden bridge that arches over McDowell Creek.

Royal Terrace Falls

Shortly thereafter, arrive at another footbridge that spans Fall Creek at the base of 119 feet Royal Terrace Falls. Whitewater horsetails, stair-step over smooth rock surfaces—one with a small, eroded hole—before spilling out at the base and gliding further downstream.

The terraces of the falls are made up of a variety of rock types put down tens of millions of years ago during the Little Butte Volcanics—ancestral Cascade volcanism and sedimentation.

A bench placed just before the bridge offers an opportunity to rest and reflect.

At the far end of the bridge stands a rare Pacific yew—its red bark showing in patches beneath a green coating of moss that covers much of the bark, branches, and leaves.

A few paces from here, take a right at a junction and follow the trail less than a quarter-mile back to your car.

Top Books and Apps for Exploring Nature in the Pacific Northwest

This post contains affiliate links. Click here to read my disclosures.

Looking for the best resources to learn and explore nature while on the trail? Below is a list of Trail Scholar favorites for everything from peaks and plants to mushrooms and birds.

Geology

Oregon Rocks! A guide to 60 Amazing Geological Sites by Marli B Miller. Mountain Press Publishing Company, 2021. Miller describes the geology of sites throughout the state in a way that is accessible and easy to understand. Colored maps and carefully selected photographs bring each site to life. As a bonus, many of the locations in this book correspond with popular hiking trails!

Beauty from the Beast: Plate Tectonics and the Landscapes of the Pacific Northwest by Robert Lillie. Wells Creek Publishers, 2015. An experienced geology professor and certified interpreter, Lillie does an amazing job of explaining how geophysical regions of the Pacific Northwest formed. Though not a field guide, this book is a great introduction to the geology of the region. I highly recommend it!

Roadside Geology of Oregon, 2^nd Edition by Marli B. Miller, Mountain Press Publishing Company, 2014. If you are interested in a more in-depth dive into the geology of Oregon, this is the book for you! Detailed accounts of the geological landscape, along with site-specific descriptions of various roadside stops, make this a great addition to any bookshelf.

PeakFinder App. Recommended by Bob Lillie during our hike on Marys Peak, this handy little app can help you identify any prominence in the landscape while you are hiking. This is not only helpful for navigation but a lot of fun!

Birds

Birds of Oregon by Roger Burrows. Lone Pine Publishing, 2003. This book is great for beginners. Birds are organized into color-coded groups that make it easy to find the bird you are looking for. Each bird species is listed with colorful illustrations, a range map, and other important features for identification.

Birds of the Willamette Valley Region by Harry Nehls, Tom Aversa, and Hal Opperman. 2004. This small book is the perfect size for a daypack. With full photos of each bird and a detailed description, including habitat and behaviors, this book is a must for anyone interested in Oregon birds. I find the “Did you know?” section especially delightful!

BirdNET App. A favorite of wildlife biologist, Corbin Murphy, this app allows you to record and analyze bird calls using your phone’s internal microphone. Developed by Cornell Lab of Ornithology and the Chemnitz University of Technology using machine learning, each analyzed bird call gives you a confidence rating and links to other resources to learn more about the birds you are hearing.

Plants

Oregon Wildflower Search App. This is hands down my favorite app to use on the trail. Sponsored by the Oregon Flora Project (Oregonflora.org), this free app helps you identify wildflowers, shrubs, and trees through an interactive key. Using location, elevation, color, size, and other details about the plant, the app narrows down the possibilities and helps you identify with ease. Plus, no service is needed for use! To learn more about OregonFlora, read about my adventures with Linda Hardison, director of the project.

Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast (Revised) by Jim Pojar and Andy MacKinnon. Lone Pine Publishing, 2014. Known by many as simply the “Pojar,” this plant identification book is a classic. Besides providing helpful identification details, drawings, and colored pictures, the “Notes” section for each plant is chock-full of natural history information and other interesting facts. There is also a section on lichen and mosses.

Trees to Know in Oregon and Washington by Ed Jenson. Oregon State University Extension Service, 2020. An updated edition of the 70-year-old classic, “Trees to Know in Oregon”, this book contains all I love about the original and more. A visual dichotomous key is included for both broadleaf and conifers that help narrow down identification. Full page descriptions of each tree provide details that help distinguish between similar species.

Fungi and Lichen

Microlichens of the Pacific Northwest, Second Ed. by Bruce McCune and Linda Geiser. Oregon State University Press, 2009. This is the lichen book to own! Written by lichen gurus, Bruce McCune and Linda Geiser, this book provides a thorough introduction to lichen ecology and lichen identification. With colored photos and detailed information on over 200 species, it is the perfect companion for a hike in the woods. Lichenologist Joe Di Meglio also talked about the book during our hike together, as well as an online key authored by McCune and Sunia Yang.

Mushrooms of the Redwood Coast by Noah Seigel and Christian Schwarz. Ten Speed Press, 2016. Recommended by Autumn Anglin during our mushroom hike. I picked up this book the week after our meeting, and it is a keeper! Though way too big to carry on the trail, this 570-page book (not including the index) is easy to use and very informative. I especially like the pictorial key to major mushroom groups and full-color photos with descriptions, including the ecology, of each species. It really is “a comprehensive guide.”

All-in-One

iNaturalist App. There is a lot to love about this all-in-one citizen science app. Simply take photos on your hike and share them with a community of people that will help identify or verify your ID. I also use the app to research species I might see on a trail before I visit. It is a lot of fun to see what others are finding on the trail.

Cascadia Revealed: A Guide to the Plants, Animals & Geology of the Pacific Northwest Mountains by Daniel Mathews. Timber Press Field Guide, 2016. I really enjoy field guides by Mathews. Not only does he include great photos and identification information, but countless insights into the natural history of many of the organisms described. I especially love his short essays on everything from “Torpor and Hibernation” to “Rock Flour.”

Curious Hiker: Alsea and Green Peak Falls Hike

Overview

Enjoy a short hike through shaded Douglas-fir and riparian forests to two delightful waterfalls along the South Fork of the Alsea River and Peak Creek.

Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 2.4 miles
Terrane: 300 elevation gain
Open: All year. Best in winter and spring for more dramatic flows.
Trailhead: Alsea Falls Recreation Area Trailhead (44.32586030561114, -123.49103660823984)
Contact: Bureau of Land Management, Salem OR

Highlights

Waterfalls; river and creek access; wildlife potential; shaded forest.

Need to Know

Roads to the trailhead are gravel, but passable with a regular passenger vehicle. Park in the day-use area. There is amply parking here. It costs $3 for day use which is payable by cash or check. A pit toilet is available. Be prepared for little to no cell service during the drive and on the trail.

Hike Description

Alsea Falls

The hike begins at the Alsea Falls Recreation Area. As you make your way toward the river, almost immediately you hit a junction. Take a left here to follow a short path that follows the South Fork to Alsea Falls.

Stop at the first viewpoint along the trail for an up-close look at Alsea. The riverbed has been scoured clear of sediments, exposing slabs of solid bedrock that you can walk out if the flow is low enough.

Continue downstream for a second look at Alsea at a distance. Look for a large log jam just downstream of the viewpoint and falls. Alsea Falls is a natural barrier for fish passage—the large woody debris acts as a marker for the end of salmonid-bearing waters.

Notice the trees and shrubs along the riverbank as you make your way back upstream to where you started. In the fall, look for splashes of color along the shore where deciduous trees and shrubs are more plentiful. Bigleaf maple and vine maple both reach over the banks near Alsea Falls—framing it in bright green or yellow depending on the season.

Turn left when you get to the junction and head over the bridge that spans the South Fork of the Alsea River. Enjoy the unique perspective of the river water as it glides toward the falls as you cross. Shrubs like salmonberry and vine maple, hang over the banks offering forage for beaver and fodder for the aquatic insects and other invertebrates that call the river home. Tall skinny red alder trunks also crowd the banks.

South Fork of the Alsea River from the bridge

Green Peak Falls

On the other side of the bridge take a left at a junction, following the trail into a shaded Douglas-fir Forest toward Green Peak Falls. Mature second-growth Douglas-fir trees can be seen at intervals, while mossy arms of Bigleaf maple reach across the trail from above. Look for large old stumps—a sign of the bygone days of logging in the area.

The trail angles up along a ridge just above the South Fork of the Alsea. Young, scaley-leaved western red cedars grow tucked away among the larger trees. Sword fern and Oregon grape make up much of the understory plants.

A grove of red alder surrounds the boulder-strewn stream at a small turn-off along the trail that leads to the river edge.

A grove of red alder trees along the river

Eventually, the dirt path widens at a campsite with a gravel road heading left. Follow the alder shaded gravel road, watching for trail markers that confirm you are going the correct way. Keep right past two turnoffs, threatening to get you off track.

Soon you will reach a trail junction near a large (often occupied) gravel camping spot on your right. Continue right past the site to rejoin the trail for Green Peak falls on the other side.

Follow the dirt trail that borders Peak Creek, a tributary of the South Fork of the Alsea River, through a stretch of floodplain forest and younger secondary forest.

There are a few spots where hikers can drop down by the creek to enjoy the cool rush of water or look for signs of wildlife. Beaver are known to visit the area, foraging on the cambium of branches of western redcedar and alder that line the banks—a snack shack for beaver. Look for their trademark incisor marks on branches hanging over the water.

Beaver incisor marks on a western redcedar

Next, hike through a section of mature forest, before reaching 50-foot Green Peak Falls as it rushes down a convex rock face. Take the steps down to the base of the falls to get a better look. On a hot summer day, enjoy the cooling effect of the water spray.

If the water is low enough, explore the rocky shores. You may be lucky enough to find a pile of chewed sticks scattered from upstream beaver colonies. Look for macroinvertebrates, like caddisfly, clinging to the rocks.

Having fully explored the stream habitat, return as you came.

Curious Hiker: Cook’s Ridge and Gwynn Creek Loop

Trees scattering the light on Gwenn Creek Trail

Overview

Walk up a ridge through massive old-growth Sitka spruce to a Douglas-fir forest, before gradually descending alongside rushing Gwynn Creek and looping back on the Oregon Coast Trail. This loop highlights the majesty of Oregon’s coastal forests.

Distance: 6.4 miles
Terrane: 1250 elevation gain. Steady incline
Difficulty: Moderate
Open: All year. Best in the winter, spring, fall.
Trailhead: Gwynn Creek/Forest Trails at Cape Perpetua Scenic Area Visitor Center (44.28048, -124.10745)
Contact: U.S. Forest Service, Siuslaw National Forest

Highlights

Dynamic Old-growth forest; lush diverse vegetation; mushroom and wildflowers; well-maintained trail.

Need to Know

Trailhead is located in the Cape Perpetua Scenic Areas Visitor Center parking area (not the day use or campground). USFS Forest Recreation Pass required for parking or equivalent. Restrooms are available at the trailhead with flush toilets. Usage is high near the visitor center. Trailheads and junctions are well marked.

Hike Description

Begin at the trailhead marked “Forested Trails.” Start by following an old logging road .4 miles through Sitka spruce forest with a sword fern and salal understory. Cross over a bridge with alder trees and salmonberry growing in the drainage below before entering an old plantation stand of Sitka spruce.

Many of the trees lean or are overturned from recent storm damage along the path. Search among the forest litter and on decaying logs and stumps for mushrooms that grow abundantly here even in winter.

Discovery Loop

Arrive at a junction for the “Discovery Loop.” Take a right to follow the trail uphill. Notice the forest change as you walk through this short .3-mile section of trail.

Larger Sitka spruce trees begin to make an appearance, along with large western hemlock. Look for trees “on stilts”—their bases sitting above the soil—the result of a starting life on a decaying log or stump that has long since broken down.

A mature western hemlock tree growing on “stilts” next to a Sitka spruce.

Cook’s Ridge

At a well-marked junction, take a right onto Cook’s Ridge Trail toward Gwynn Creek. This 1.7-mile section starts out flat before climbing steeply along a rolling ridgetop.

Marvel at the stature of large-diameter Sitka spruce trees with their “paint chip” bark found near the junction. Explore the rotting logs and jagged stumps with new growth sprouting like unruly hair. Shelf mushrooms create ladders up dead, standing trees (aka snags). A mat of moss envelops the ground and the shallow roots of spruce trees.

As you continue up the steepening trail, observe how the forest transforms from a Sitka spruce forest to one dominated by Douglas-fir. Western redcedar trees join in the mix. Salal and patches of evergreen huckleberry become more prevalent. While trailing blackberry and redwood violet enchant the ground.

Western redcedar and Douglas-fir opposite each other on Cook’s Ridge Trail.

Gwenn Creek

Another well-signed intersection directs you right onto the Gwenn Creek Trail for a 2.6-mile descent along the south side of the ridge with Gwynn Creek below.

Again, the Douglas-fir forest is lush and multistoried. Massive Douglas-fir—some with blackened fire-scarred trunks—loom tall. Swooping branches of western hemlock with their droopy tops hang over the trail, requiring one to swoop down to stay clear. A patch of Cascade Oregon grape stands out amongst the shrub layer of sword fern, huckleberry, and salal. Clumps of deer fern run along sections of the path. Fuzzy leaf piggyback plant and more redwood violet shimmer in patches on the moist forest floor.

The trail undulates up and down through several drainages with creeks that empty into Gwynn creek below, leveling off for about a half mile before reaching the next junction. Gwynn creek is lined with alder trees that hug its banks. Fallen trees create habitat for fish and other wildlife.

Oregon Coast Trail

The final mile of the hike follows the Oregon Coast Trail through a shorter, wind-warped stand of Sitka Spruce. Take a left at a signed junction to follow the trail along the oceanfront. There are several peek-a-boo views to the Ocean and Highway-101. Feel the cool air and listen to ocean waves crashing against the rocky shores—a sure sign the Pacific is near.

To end the hike, cross the road you came in on and follow a paved path to the right up to the visitor center. There is also an option to turn left for a short detour to the rocky shore and tidepools if you are so inclined.

Rocky shores along the Oregon Coast Trail.

Mini Field Guide

Top Winter Hikes in Oregon for the Curious

Winter can be a difficult time for hikers—it is colder and wetter, the days are shorter, and there are a lot more logistical challenges to consider before going outside. However, winter is also a fabulous time to experience the outdoors. Snow and ice can make travel more challenging, but also brings beauty to the landscape. Gloomy days may be shorter, but they often provide opportunities for solitude and introspection on the trail. Besides, winter is long in the Pacific Northwest and who wants to stay cooped up indoors until spring? So, bundle up and head out the door. There is much to discover on winter trails for the curious hiker.

1) Cape Perpetua Scenic Area

Cape Perpetua’s Spouting Horn (left) and Sitka Spruce Tree (right)

A forested headland with sweeping views, dramatic ocean waves erupting onto rocky shores, and tide pools filled with intertidal life—a visit to Cape Perpetua’s hiking trails is a must any time of year. But visiting in the winter has its’s perks. Aside from a reduction in crowds, many of Cape Perpetua’s features are otherwise enhanced during the winter. For instance, increased winter’s wave action makes viewing Cape Perpetua’s show-stopping—Devils Churn, Cook’s Chasm, Thor’s Well, and Spouting Horn—much more dramatic.

In addition, some of the highest and lowest tides of the year can also be experienced in the winter, making a visit to the tide pools an enjoyable option. Take the Captain Cook Trail from the visitor center to access the tidepools. Just watch out for those sneaker waves!

Climb up to the top of Cape Perpetuas’s scenic headland —the remains of an ancient shield volcano — via the St. Perpetua trail for some of the best views on the Coast. Also, if you visit between mid-December and mid-January keep your eyes peeled for some of the nearly 25,000 grey whales that migrate along Oregon’s Coast each winter.

On a foggy day, a hike along Cooks Ridge and Gwynn Creek is well worth the trip alone. Both take you through some beautiful old-growth forests. Notice the rough”chipped paint” bark of the Sitka Spruce and the deeply furrowed bark of the Douglas-fir as you marvel at the size of the trees.

Location or Nearest Town: Yachats, OR

Distance: Varies from less than 1 mile to up to a 9-mile loop. Check out the forest service trail map and choose your adventure

Difficulty: Easy to Difficult

When to go: Anytime

Why go: Wave watching, tide pools, whale watching, old-growth forests.

Trail Curiosity: High and Low Tides

Explaining tides is as easy as explaining gravity. Okay, so not that easy. But it doesn’t require a master’s in geophysics to understand the basics of why we have tides in Oregon, and across the globe.

All objects are drawn to each other by the force of gravity, with more massive and closer objects having a stronger pull. The moon is the closest massive object to the Earth and exerts the largest influence. The moon’s gravity distorts the shape of the Earth’s mass, creating watery bulges which follow the moon’s orbit around the Earth, resulting in high tides on the sides of Earth closest and farthest from the moon.

The sun—due to its mass—also has an influence on tides, but to a smaller extent. During a new moon or full moon—when the Earth, Moon, and Sun are aligned—tides are higher than when the moon is perpendicular to the sun.

Simple, right? Not exactly, there are of course other factors that influence tides, like local wind and weather patterns.

In addition, because the orbit of the moon around the Earth is an ellipse, there are times when the moon is closer to the Earth than others. When these times, align closely with a full moon or new moon, this can result in what is known as “king tides.”

In Oregon, king tides occur during the winter and can add several feet to the average tide! On a heavy surf day, this can mean dramatic waves for winter storm watchers.

2) Ray Benson Sno-Park

Brandenburg Shelter (left) and View of Mt. Washington (right)

Located at the top of Santiam Pass, Ray Benson Sno-Park provides ample opportunities for winter recreation. For hikers willing to strap into snowshoes or cross-country skis for the day, Ray Benson Sno-Park has many options for trails and loops of various lengths. Of course, shorter or longer options are also possible. Though the Sno-Park is the largest on the Santiam Pass, you will be surprised at how much solitude you can find at this accessible, beginner-friendly snowshoe destination.

The South Loop with the Brandenburg Shelter Loop add-on is a favorite of mine—offering views of Hayrick Butte, Black Butte, Mount Washington, and Three-fingered Jack at different points throughout. You can also take a short diversion over to Trail #3 (though please note this is a groomed snowmobile trail/road) that leads to Big Lake Campground and an opportunity to see Big Lake with Mount Washington encased in snow, just overhead.

Many of the trails travel through forests of stately conifers, covered in snow. However, the North Loop provides a unique view of forest recovery, as it passes through a part of the forest burned by the B&B Complex fires of 2003—ghostly snags and young regrowth line the trail.

Whatever route you choose, make sure to stop by one of the rustic warming shelters scattered across the backcountry. These three-sided shelters are a great stopping point for a snack and rest. Each one has a couple of benches and a wood stove with firewood for days when you need to warm up.

Another reason to visit Ray-Benson Sno-Park is the snow! The fact that it is situated along the Cascade Crest makes the snow at Ray Benson phenomenal.

Location or Nearest Town: Sisters, OR

Distance: Varies depending on the route. Check out the Ray Benson Sno-Park Nordic Trails Map to plan your adventure.

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

When to go: Anytime there is enough snow! Though a sunny day in the mountains is ideal for the views.

Why go: Mountain views, backcountry warming shelters, multiple route options, and snow!

Trail Curiosity: Snowpack

Due to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, Oregon has a maritime snow climate. Relatively warm, moist air from the ocean travels inland over the Cascades where it is forced upward, cools, condenses, and becomes rain or snow—a process known as orographic lift. As a result, snow in the west is wetter and heavier compared to the continental interior—creating a deeper, denser snowpack that sticks around well in the summer months.

All that snow is good news for recreators in the winter, but even better news for Oregonians come summer. Many of Oregon’s watersheds depend on snow, especially in dry summer months when many rivers are fed primarily by snowmelt.

Unfortunately, the news isn’t all good. Climate models predict a future with much less snow in Oregon—as warming causes historically snowy areas to become rainier. Snowpack levels are already declining. According to the Fifth Oregon Climate Assessment, spring snowpack has decreased by 15-30% since the 1950s—leaving many communities and ecosystems dry during the hottest part of the year.

For more on the science of snow read Hike with a Snow Scientist.

3) Ankeny National Wildlife Refuge

Views from the Rail Trail at Ankeny National Wildlife Refuge

Ankeny National Wildlife Refuge is a convenient gem in the heart of the Willamette Valley. Just south of Salem, near the confluence of the Santiam and Willamette Rivers, Ankeny is an accessible escape from the urban environment.

The refuge offers a mixture of habitats—from marshy bottomlands and agricultural fields to oak woodlands and riparian forest—making Ankeny exceptional for wildlife viewing. Winter is a great time to visit as waterfowl and raptors are abundant.

With a variety of trails and viewing areas to choose from, Ankeny Wildlife Refuge is a great place for families and individuals of all ages to experience.

Location or Nearest Town: South of Salem, OR

Distance: 0.75 miles on the Rail Trail to Observation Blind (longer hikes possible from April 1^st – Sept. 30^th). Pintail & Egret Marsh Boardwalk is .25 miles. Stop at Eagle Marsh for zero miles, but with amazing views! Read more about options on the USFWS website to plan your trip.

Difficulty: Easy

When to go: Gees arrive in October/Nov and leave in April. Winter Sanctuary Season starts October 1^st to March 31^st

Why go: Wildlife viewing, especially birds.

Trail Curiosity: Winter Flocks

During the winter, Ankeny Wildlife Refuge becomes a haven for thousands of waterfowl that flock to the area. The Refuge lies in the Pacific Flyway—one of four major migratory routes for birds that extends from Alaska to South America. Migratory birds arrive in search of more abundant food resources and a place to rest—some species will stay out the winter in Oregon, for others, it is a pit stop on their way further south. Northern Pintail, American Wigeon, Ruddy Duck, Tundra Swan, and Northern Shoveler, are a few of the many winter visitors to the Refuge. Also, be to look for the Dusky Canada Goose, a shorter, dark-colored cousin to the cackling Canada goose, that winters exclusively in the Willamette Valley.

It is not hard to spot wintering waterfowl and year-round residents of the refuge as they tend to congregate in fields and ponds where food is plentiful. Many of the species are large enough to see, even without binoculars, and have distinct markings, making Ankeny in the winter a wonderful place for beginning birders to practice their hand at identification.

Keep in mind, wintering waterfowl are not the only birds to see. Year-round resident wading birds, like Great Blue Herons, are also fun to spot, along with songbirds hiding in the brush. But don’t forget to look up! Raptors are also spotted at higher frequency in the refuge in the winter.

4) Ona Beach to Seal Rock

Concretions in the sand (left), basalt sea stacks (middle), Castle Rock (right)

Ona Beach is one of my favorite walks along the Oregon Coast. And winter, in my opinion, is the best time to visit! There is so much to see and appreciate on this short 2-mile stretch of beach!

The hike starts at the back of the Ona Beach picnic area where you cross over meandering Beaver Creek on a wooden bridge heading toward the ocean. Once on the beach, the hike continues south, following the coastline.

The geology lesson begins here. The hike takes you over a wavecut platform of sedimentary rock from the Yaquina Formation—25-22 million-year-old bedrock formed from river deposits when western Oregon was under a shallow sea. Rounded rocks known as concretions stick up from the sand, like toadstools or pedestals, atop the platform. Other rocks of various shapes and forms provide additional sculptural elements to the hike.

As you near the end of the beach, tall basalt sea stacks rise out of the ocean. Castle Rock is one of the most notable. These rocks are remnants of an approximately 15-million-year-old basalt lava flow that traveled hundreds of miles from where they originate in Eastern Oregon before touching the sea. A few small tidepools can be seen here at low tide.

Location or Nearest Town: Right off 101; south of Newport, OR.

Distance: 4.2 miles with minimal elevation gain. To extend the hike, there is a connector trail to Seal Rock State Recreation Site that can be found at the final creek crossing.

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

When to go: Dec-March when tides are moving out.

Why go: Beach access, interesting rock formations and geology, fossil and agate collecting. Some tidepools (with more at nearby Seal Rock).

Trail Curiosity: Marine Fossils.

Tens of millions of years ago, what is now the Oregon coast was under a shallow ancient sea crawling with marine life. These marine creatures lived out their days, ultimately falling to the ocean floor where sediment from Oregon’s rivers would settle on top of their dead bodies. Over time, the sediments compacted into sandstones, shales, and other sedimentary rocks, entombing the remains of these ancient marine creatures as they decomposed. The animals’ soft tissues would rot away, leaving calcified parts, like shells behind. These calcified remains would slowly become inundated with dissolved minerals from the sea that would harden into rock becoming fossilized.

Later still, these fossil-rich sedimentary rocks were uplifted by the action of plate tectonics creating the Oregon Coast Range and Coastal plain as we know it today. Now, clam and snail fossils are common along the coast anywhere the fossil-bearing sedimentary rocks are exposed and subject to weathering and erosion. Winter storms knock loose many bivalve fossils for enthusiasts to collect and enjoy.

5) McDonald-Dunn Research Forests

*Usnea longissima* lichen (left), Baker Creek (middle), Lichen covered branch (right)

A short drive from Corvallis in the foothills of the Oregon Coast Range, the McDonald Dunn Forest provides many miles of trails that are open year-round. Maintained by Oregon State University for research and education, forest stands are managed with a variety of objectives in mind, resulting in varied forest structures—from young even-aged stands of Douglas-fir to mature forest reserves.

Even though the forest type is primarily Douglas-fir, it is surprising how many different unique habitat types you encounter on the trails—including sections of oak woodland and riparian buffers. There is even a small area near Soap Creek where western hemlock and western redcedar occur along with Douglas-fir. Grand fir is also present as a naturally regenerating understory throughout the forest. Other common plants to discover include: sword fern, vine maple, salal, trailing blackberry, Hooker’s fairy bells, and western meadowrue. In the spring Trillium and fairy slipper orchids are fun to look for along the trail.

Location or Nearest Town: Corvallis, OR

Distance: Varies depending on the route. Online maps are available for free for you to plan your route.

Difficulty: Easy to Difficult

When to go: Anytime!

Why go: Variety of forest structures and habitats (Douglas-fir forests, Oak woodlands, Riparian). Plus, views of the coastal mountains, hills, and forests.

Trail Curiosity: Lichen

Winters in the Pacific Northwest can be wet and dreary. Sometimes it can seem as though spring can’t come soon enough. However, as the days turn gray, an often-overlooked group of living things takes center stage—lichen.

Lichen are composite organisms—made up of two or more organisms—in this case, a fungus, algae and/or cyanobacteria. The algae or cyanobacteria is known as a photobiont—producing food via photosynthesis—and the fungus is known as the mycobiont—capturing and absorbing nutrients as fungi do. It is in this partnership that lichen succeed, living hundreds, even thousands of years growing on rocks, trees, and on the ground.

When it comes to wandering through the winter woods in the Pacific Northwest, lichen become the showstoppers.

Lichens love the rain. As other organisms wait in dormancy for better times to come, lichens come alive in the winter. When wet, their thallus (or body) is more vibrantly colored and pliable, as photosynthesis and growth is activated.

In addition, winter winds bring down a lot of lichen-covered branches to fertilize the forest floor. An added benefit of “lichen fall” is it makes lichen that grow higher in the canopy more accessible for viewing.

For more on lichen read Hike with a Lichenologist.